Double rope belay Tech Tip Article


Original Post
Dave Pfurr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 10

I would have sworn I saw this article on belay technique with double ropes in a "Tech Tip" article in Climbing magazine. It included photos of the technique for separating the two ropes with the fingers of your brake hand. Lately, I tried searching the Climbing website--Rock and Snow's site, too--and have yet to find the article. Wonder if anyone out there can provide a link to it?

Mr. D

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 40

Not what you are asking for, but there is some very elementary information (from the UK, naturally, where double ropes have a long tradition of use), at ukclimbing.com/articles/pag... .

There's also some information on this MP thread: mountainproject.com/v/half-...

Here's are two longish posts I made on rc.com BITD (2005, 2011): rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo... and rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo... . (Not sure whether I still agree with myself about all those points; I haven't reread the posts.)

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

again, not what you are looking for, but I'd love to see some figures on the reduction in grip strength with the finger separating the ropes. I often do this, but it slightly concerns me.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 40

I think Jim Titt has some figures on reduction of grip strength on a single rope when there are two running through the brake hand, without addition of unemployed fingers.

I went to an assisted-braking device (CT Alpine UP), motivated partially by such concerns. But the high-impact performance of the assisted braking devices (also from Jim Titt) raises issues of their own. What I recall is that the Alpine Up is the best of the lot (it is certainly the best of the lot in terms of half-rope handling), but might damage the rope in some high-load scenarios.

baldclimber · · Ottawa, Ontario, Canada · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
rgold wrote: What I recall is that the Alpine Up is the best of the lot (it is certainly the best of the lot in terms of half-rope handling), but might damage the rope in some high-load scenarios.
Can you expand on this? I've been looking at the Alpine Up but that would certainly be a concern.
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 40

Jim did some heavy loading tests that damaged the sheath. That's all I remember at present.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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