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Looking for Coleman Glacier seracing beta

Original Post
Gavin W · · Surrey, BC · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 183

Just got my first set of ice tools and an old pair of plastic doubles, and I'm looking to go set up some top rope climbs on the Coleman glacier. I've ice climbed once last season, hired a guide for a day in Ouray.

How late is the climbing still decent? From the end of the Heliotrope Ridge trail, where should I go to get the best climbing? Will ice screws suffice for setting up a top rope, or should I have a picket or fluke in place as well? Anything else I should know?

Thanks for any info.

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,145

I can give some very rudimentary info. Before the end of the trail, about mile 5 or so one can drop down off the main trail into the trees via a side trail that leads to a creek where there is a camp used by many - there is even a primitive privy. From this camp one can descend a climbers trail that will lead down to the glacier. Climbing on the glacier can often be down late into the fall before the winter snow.

Easier access would be on Mt. Hood and Elliot Glacier.

climbing coastie · · Wasilla, AK · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 90

I'd reccomend a couple V-threads over screws. If you do use screws be sure to check them often, probably twice as much as you'd think. They can melt out scary fast.

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 483

Just went on Sunday. Used long screws for anchors, had to tighten every other lap or so. Using a vertical V thread and backing up with a screw would speed things up at the end of the day. Definitely did not have any soft snow to use pickets.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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