Namaste Wall


Original Post
en.r · · Long Beach, Ca · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 30

-Went out to this beautiful place a couple weeks ago. I was very excited to get on these unique climbs. Not being from the area, I asked the ranger at the vc were the turn out was. He told me how to get there, but warned me that the bolts on some of the climbs were pulled and loose from people taking intentional whippers for fun.

-He was not lying. Anyway, I was not able to do some of the routes that I wanted to do for years:(. There may be a take home message from this or I should just stfu and stop whining.

Simon W · · Nowhere Land · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

Last time I went up Namaste and some of its neighbors I don't remember any missing bolts so that's too bad....

Namaste is a wee bit run up high so it would be really scary skipping bolts..

Ryan Arnold · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 325

We climbed Namaste as well as the 10+ and the 12+ routes two weeks ago; we didn't notice anything wrong with the bolts.

en.r · · Long Beach, Ca · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 30

Hmm, I don't think you could have missed "no third bolt" written in chalk on the wall.

Klimbien · · St.George Orem Denver Vegas · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 140

Man that sucks... Abuse in this area is infuriating, the Rock is so fragile and the climbing is so good. Tensions run high in Kolob canyons, we as climbers really need to be good stewards, sorry preaching to the choir.

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 15

Can you give a detailed description of what is up there? It's it a bolt without a hangar? Or no bolt at all?

en.r · · Long Beach, Ca · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 30

I saw the bolt on the ground about thirty feet from the wall. I did not take a close look at it. It may have had the sheath attached. -But for sure not just a missing hanger.

-A note. I did not have a guide book or my phone on me. So the missing bolt could have been on a adjacent route to namaste. After seeing a missing bolt and listening to the park staff I did not climb these routes. I figured if one bolt is gone others could be questionable. -Coming back and climbing them in the future was a better option than decking from a bolt being pulled

Also the anchors mid way up the 11 on the far left are very loose. The chains up high seemed fine.

JK- · · SLC · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 13

Sadly the climbers organization in Southern Utah is pretty about helping out with bolts in places that can't be guided (my experience. YMMV).

Best bets for stuff in Zion:
Some motivated individual.
ASCA
Maybe Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (who often takes interest in Utah crags a little further from home).

Zion sandstone is best bolted with really long glue-ins, which I've seen very few of anywhere in Southern Utah.

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an... · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 0

Hey, I am the main volunteer for the ASCA. I am aware of the issue and am on it. however, its not an easy job. Pulling, re-drilling and replacing 80-100 holes with Glue-In bolts is no small ordeal. I put it off to the spring due to weather and my work schedule. If you want nice bolts donate to the ASCA, and lobby for a change in how we do replacement.

till then, climb safe and trust nothing.

NAMASTE IS MISSING THE 3RD BOLT. MANY OTHERS ARE LOOSE OR UNRELIABLE.

en.r · · Long Beach, Ca · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 30

Thank you for your time and resources in maintaining a unique and beautiful area.

My intent was not to complain about the quality of the hardware. I was gently suggesting not to use a climbing area as a place to intentionally and repeatedly fall on bolts. I admittedly did a poor job doing so in the initial post.

It is my understanding that, on rock such as sandstone, it deteriorates the hardwear/holes faster. As you stated, createing a nightmare of drilling/repair/bolting. Which, I am sure does not sit well with the park. -Ultimately jeopardizing the future climbers enjoyment of this amazing place.

Thank you again for your hard work, time, and sacrifice.

Simon W · · Nowhere Land · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

If I remember correctly the one reach move on namaste is at the third bolt.. so that might not be people just falling for fun.

The reach! mountainproject.com/v/11115...

Maybe it's the fourth.. but it could very well be the third

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an... · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 0

Oh no, i didnt think you were complaining. I just wanted to grt eyeballz on the following.

1. I know its bad
2. I am fixing it
3. Its coming in the spring when i can get off work, get 11 voulenters, get bolts from Greg at the ASCA.

when its done and all the cruxes and last bolts have 5/8s glue ins with a pullout value of 86kn. Take all the whips you want.

Until then,be careful. The bolts are hardware store expansion bolts from the late 80s.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 20
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:Oh no, i didnt think you were complaining. I just wanted to grt eyeballz on the following. 1. I know its bad 2. I am fixing it 3. Its coming in the spring when i can get off work, get 11 voulenters, get bolts from Greg at the ASCA. when its done and all the cruxes and last bolts have 5/8s glue ins with a pullout value of 86kn. Take all the whips you want. Until then,be careful. The bolts are hardware store expansion bolts from the late 80s.
Hit me up. I'll drive down and help.
BruceH · · New Harmony, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

Rob, I live "across the street" in New Harmony - I'm happy to help.

JK- · · SLC · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 13
Rob Warden, Space Lizard wrote:Hey, I am the main volunteer for the ASCA. I am aware of the issue and am on it. however, its not an easy job. Pulling, re-drilling and replacing 80-100 holes with Glue-In bolts is no small ordeal. I put it off to the spring due to weather and my work schedule. If you want nice bolts donate to the ASCA, and lobby for a change in how we do replacement. till then, climb safe and trust nothing. NAMASTE IS MISSING THE 3RD BOLT. MANY OTHERS ARE LOOSE OR UNRELIABLE.
Dear Lizard,

I'm a far cry from being able to climb most of the routes on the wall, but I'd love to come pitch in some labor to help however I can. Unfortunately my finances are tighter than my time... That said, is there anyway to ear mark money donated to ASCA for Zion?
Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0

I was there over the weekend.... The bolt was already replaced w an expansion bolt.

The original stud is still in place.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply