BD Number 3 Cam stuck on P4 Handcracker Direct, Eldo


Original Post
Nick Gibson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0

There are now 4 or 5 #3's stuck up there, and unfortunately mine is one of them. It's the one that is close to the lip of the crack just before a pod-type feature. If you grab it I'll have a 12 pack waiting for you!
Nick

SRB25 · · Woodside, ca · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

How is this possible

Andrew Sletto · · lakewood, Co · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

One 12 pack $10.99 one black diamond #3 $74.95! Gonna have to think about this one

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,045

ha ha, not when you see the condition of those #3's up there :( somebody needs to just bring a sawsall up there and do the annual carve out.

Anthony · · Northern CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Andrew, you should stop drinking 3-2 beer. It'll stunt your growth.

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,331

If only there was a company that made a cam sized between a #2 and #3 Camalot ...

Nick Gibson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0
SRB25 wrote:How is this possible
So the way a camming device works is that you pull the trigger to decrease the width of the cam, then you insert it into the crack. If you "overcam" the unit, there is not enough range left to extract it from the crack, and it easily gets stuck in a constriction. Does that make sense "SRB25"? If you don't know what a cam is, google "camming device." If you don't know what a constriction is, stick to sport climbing
jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10

So lets get this straight. You placed a #3 next to three other stuck #3s and now want it back?

Why not clip the graveyard of stuck 3's and keep cruising?

don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 25
Dave Holliday wrote:If only there was a company that made a cam sized between a #2 and #3 Camalot ...
If only there was a climber that knew that multiple overcammed #3s means you should go for the goldy on your harness.
Nick Gibson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0
jason.cre wrote:So lets get this straight. You placed a #3 next to three other stuck #3s and now want it back? Why not clip the graveyard of stuck 3's and keep cruising?
Great question, more appropriate for my partner who placed the cam. And yeah, I want it back. I've returned cams that I've unstuck. Don't think it's asking too much.
Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,331

You do know that retrieving gear off the crux pitch of Handcracker is a simple, one-person operation?

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,045
Nick Gibson wrote: Great question, more appropriate for my partner who placed the cam. And yeah, I want it back. I've returned cams that I've unstuck. Don't think it's asking too much.
sounds more like a problem that you and your partner should work out...
Nick Gibson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0
slim wrote: sounds more like a problem that you and your partner should work out...
We already have. Bummer, I thought some climbers were still willing to return lost gear. Guess we should all stick to the "finders keepers" ethic.
don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 25
Nick Gibson wrote: We already have. Bummer, I thought some climbers were still willing to return lost gear. Guess we should all stick to the "finders keepers" ethic.
I've literally watched someone booty one of my cams right in front of me. I gave them the racking biner that went with it, got a short lesson on how he got it out and how to clean cams that are super stuck, and they gave me a beer, which I drank happily while bullshitting with them for a few minutes. It was quite a pleasant transaction, and that lesson that I learned has allowed me not only to not stick any more cams, but also to booty several others.

I stick to that ethic. My skill to both place properly to prevent the cam from getting stuck, and to clean it after it was stuck was lacking. Why then should I think that I should be rewarded by receiving my cam back from someone that has a higher level of skill than me? I should not.

Don't mistake bailing on cams with just failing to have the skill to A) place correctly, and B) be able to clean when you do not. To each their own, if you've given cams back that you bootied, that's awesome. I have too, but only when asked, and reluctantly- and that's because of my own actions of not asking for one of mine that was bootied. If I yank a cam out and it's in decent condition, I'm probably going to keep it unless the owner is right there looking at me with whimpering eyes and in total awe of my skill. That last part was a joke. Kind of.
Nick Gibson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0
don'tchuffonme wrote: I've literally watched someone booty one of my cams right in front of me. I gave them the racking biner that went with it, got a short lesson on how he got it out and how to clean cams that are super stuck, and they gave me a beer, which I drank happily while bullshitting with them for a few minutes. It was quite a pleasant transaction, and that lesson that I learned has allowed me not only to not stick any more cams, but also to booty several others. I stick to that ethic. My skill to both place properly to prevent the cam from getting stuck, and to clean it after it was stuck was lacking. Why then should I think that I should be rewarded by receiving my cam back from someone that has a higher level of skill than me? I should not. Don't mistake bailing on cams with just failing to have the skill to A) place correctly, and B) be able to clean when you do not. To each their own, if you've given cams back that you bootied, that's awesome. I have too, but only when asked, and reluctantly- and that's because of my own actions of not asking for one of mine that was bootied. If I yank a cam out and it's in decent condition, I'm probably going to keep it unless the owner is right there looking at me with whimpering eyes and in total awe of my skill. That last part was a joke. Kind of.
Yeah, those are good points. Fine, you've convinced me! Over to the dark side I go...
· · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 1970 · Points: 0

What's truly hilarious is you don't even have to place a #3 there as perfect smaller cam placements exist just to the right of where the graveyard is on that pitch. Typically when I see multiple stuck cams I don't place my gear there. It's kind of fucking obvious especially on that pitch. But hey, none of them are mine so I guess the joke is on everyone else.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,249

I cleaned up one of the five today with a hammer. Also got a first generation green Camalot off the first pitch. Both cams are dead now. Gonna need a hacksaw for the remaining four #3 Camalots.

JK- · · SLC · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 58

In before totems...

Sputnick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0

Nick, I recovered a #3 yesterday from the crack. Let me know your markings, and if it's yours you can come pick it up. Same goes for whomever else's cam this may be.

There's still 2 left that seem like they'd need a sawing out. Come to think of it, one of those better matches Nick's description...

Jack Mullen · · Oceanside, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K3VYjzlFJJA
This video has some helpful tips for removing over cammed cams, as long as the tips of the lobes aren't in contact with the rock on the side opposite them you should be able to get anything out (especially with the nut tool). Maybe helpful, maybe just repeating the obvious and these cams are just really damn stuck. Sound like they must be pretty damn stuck.

AndrewArroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Jack Mullen wrote:https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K3VYjzlFJJA This video has some helpful tips for removing over cammed cams, as long as the tips of the lobes aren't in contact with the rock on the side opposite them you should be able to get anything out (especially with the nut tool). Maybe helpful, maybe just repeating the obvious and these cams are just really damn stuck. Sound like they must be pretty damn stuck.
This video is awesome. Thanks for sharing it. Love the guy's homemade demo crack.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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