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Solo TRing in Eldo

Original Post
John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 30

Sooo... I've now spent three days with my microtraxions and semi-static line doing solo TRs in Eldo. But I'm worried that this is kind of a jerk thing to do... I mean, if I'm parking a line on a popular moderate and another party sees it and goes to find another route, that's kind of douche-y, no?

What should I do?

  • Put a sign at the base saying, "Doing laps on this route, but happy to move aside and let you do the route!"?
  • Just stop TRing popular routes?
  • Get a partner and climb like a normal human being? (Yes, I'm in the partner finder... no, no one wants to climb with me)
  • Move back to California and leave you people alone?


jleining · · CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 28

climb more, worry less.

This is a state that fundamentally believes in the doctrine of prior appropriation, first come first served.

Alexander Blum · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143

As long as you're not taking up the route for an inordinate amount of time, it's no different than if a pair of climbers had taken the route. If you're on one route for two hours, that's different.

I also disagree with the above poster. Worrying about the experience of others (also known as being considerate) is becoming more and more important as crags get even more crowded.

TR soloing can be a blast, sometimes it's hard to find a partner, and it can also be nice to just get put and run laps by yourself. Have fun!

Mike McNeil · · Spearfish, South Dakota · Joined Feb 2007 · Points: 1,525

Seems like Boulder Canyon might be better

butlerbt · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 60

My vote: perfectly acceptable practice. Your experience is no less important than other's. And your style of climbing is no less valid than other's.

jeremy c. cadwell · · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 75

Just go do your thing. If someone else wants to get on the route, they can be brave and come talk to you.

Shane Zentner · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 205

Depends of the routes you are running laps on. I wouldn't camp out on popular routes on the weekends, i.e. first pitch of the Bastille Crack, etc. Yep, consideration of others should be practiced, especially in places like Eldo.

Good luck and have fun!

don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 25

If you're competent enough to TR solo safely, that's at least somewhat of an indication that you know enough to belay properly. If that's the case, it begs the question: Why do you think you can't find a partner? Might be worth considering.

As to the issue at hand, personally if I was hogging a classic and running laps on it while people were at the base waiting to throw leads on it, it would detract from the enjoyment of climbing the route, but that's just me. As far as having the "right" to do so, if you got up early and got on it first, I say it's yours. How you deal with the rest is up to you. If you're just trying to get mileage in by doing laps, there are certainly less popular routes on which you can accomplish this. If you're headpointing solo style to figure out gear or work moves on something that's at your limit, that's a bit different IMO.

So, the real answer is: It depends on a variety of factors and you have to decide in conjunction (preferably with communication) with other climbers what's acceptable for you, them, and what the overall expectation for any particular route or area is.

John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 30

Just to address a few of the comments in this thread:

  • I only solo TR on weekdays. If I start doing it on weekends, I'll look for more obscure routes
  • I am happy to move aside for other people. I recently sat for 2.5 hours for a two parties to climb the pitch I had fixed.
  • I appreciate those of you who've said my mode of climbing is as legit as any other. I agree. But taking a classic climb for a full day seems really rude to me.

I have seen someone put a TR on the first pitch of Bastille Crack and then tell others, "Sorry, we're going to be here awhile" while they run laps with their party-of-four. There are no laws against this, but geez...


Cor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,460

Tell them you will clean any stuck gear they leave.
Everyone will be happy!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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