beta video request - Target Practice


Original Post
Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 28

Does anyone have a good video of someone working through the crux section of Target Practice at Farley (hopefully shot from above so that I could see foot/body movement)? I had some beta that worked but I'm now having trouble repeating it on my redpoint attempts, and whatever else I'm doing isn't working too well.

Feel free to PM me if you don't want things shared publicly.

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 25

Hey I have beta that I'd love to share but no vid. Is this for pulling onto the no-hands rest?

Zach Swanson · · Newton, MA · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 28

Nah, above it in the slab corner. I keep popping off moving to the final sloper-crimp on the rail. I had it working at one point (for several attempts) with a left toe-hook but I've somehow forgotten what I was doing and can't replicate that movement anymore. And now I'm just getting frustrated trying all sorts of stuff.

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 25

I got a really high right foot as soon as I bump my left up to the best hold. Also suck the hips to the wall as much as possible

sara pax · · western mass · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 153

Pretty sure it goes left right left right left. Not joking.

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 25

It can. Skipping the first right is only good beta if you're 5.10 or so

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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