Gunks Bonticou Crag Routes

Does anyone here have any info about climbing at Bonticou Crag?

Bonticou, like Lost City, is on Preserve land and the Preserve asks that it remain "undocumented". So no guidebook. It's a "see it, think it looks good, climb it" sort of spot.

Having said that, there are at least a dozen VERY worthwhile lines there. Most are pretty reasonable (5.8 or below). The routes right of the yellow blazed trail are longer than what's to the left, though the left ones are easier to see and get to. I encourage you to pick a line and head up it. If you get in trouble, bail, walk around and rap to retrieve your gear. No biggie. As with any less-traveled area, expect some lichen, pine needles on the holds, and maybe loose rock.

No sun there until afternoon, so bring a jacket if it's cool.

Enjoy!

Agree with Mike, and thank you for notposting names and grades. Although they hardly do any good. I've got names for a dozen routes there that don't match anyone else's names! Lol.

Routes are layered by generation at bonticue crag , as you move north to slant and double/ triple right things are more distinct in general although we came across old pins in the 80's. I mapped the geology for my master's in the 80's.

Funny, I did a new route out there in 1967. It went over a big roof, and nobody wanted to follow it, since I guess it looked pretty intimidating.
I was with Dave Craft and Dick Williams, and I was the noob, having only climbed about a year.
Never went back to that area.

It's fun, and you should do it.

There are fun moderates left and right of "the scramble".