When to visit?


Original Post
Stanley Baker · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

My girlfriend and I have a non climber friend that lives in Vegas and is willing to let us stay at her place. When is climbing good at Red Rock? We want to go out early next year, but not knowing the area we're not sure when things clear up to be good for climbing. February? March?

Danger-Russ Gordon · · Orem UT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 590

kinda depends or your preference of crowds, or temps. I would vote late march.

Stanley Baker · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

I'm from the NW so I like it pretty mild. 70 degrees is optimal.

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70

If you're aiming for the spring, beware of rain.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

I vote for October first, then April or May.

Stanley Baker · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

Thanks for the feedback. I didn't know what winter/spring was like in that area so I didn't know if it would be dry enough early on. Looks like it would either be too cold or too rainy until later in spring?

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70
loafcrimp wrote:Thanks for the feedback. I didn't know what winter/spring was like in that area so I didn't know if it would be dry enough early on. Looks like it would either be too cold or too rainy until later in spring?
It can be brilliant. But climbing anywhere in the states is iffy in the Spring. April showers bring spring flowers and all that.

I doubt temps will be an issue. I once climbed Epin. Jan 18th (although three days prior it was 10°). If anything, the later in the spring the greater the chance it'll be too hot.
Drederek · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 315

Definitely spring, the days are too short in the fall. April is optimum long days vs hotness, rain is just a luck thing.

JK- · · SLC · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 58

I've spent a week in November and a week in March there each of the last several years. Both are nice, but the March week is always stellar.

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70
Drederek wrote:Definitely spring, the days are too short in the fall.
wat
Kevin MP · · Redmond, OR · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 193

My personal best trips have been there in April. I think it depends if your focus is more on single pitch cragging versus climbing long routes. Lots of the classic sport crags get sun most or all day and are good in the colder winter or early spring months. The bigger walls like in Black Velvet Canyon can have more shade and breeze to keep you cool in warmer months, plus more daylight is a good thing for long routes.

Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70
verticalworldtraveler wrote:My personal best trips have been there in April. I think it depends if your focus is more on single pitch cragging versus climbing long routes. Lots of the classic sport crags get sun most or all day and are good in the colder winter or early spring months. The bigger walls like in Black Velvet Canyon can have more shade and breeze to keep you cool in warmer months, plus more daylight is a good thing for long routes.
I'm not aware of anything there that takes longer than a day in winter. As I said, did epin. on Jan 18th. 12h car to car. Plenty of sunlight in fall to do pretty much anything.
Stanley Baker · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

Honestly we'd probably be looking at as much bouldering as we could do (is there bouldering) and after that single pitch stuff.

Kevin MP · · Redmond, OR · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 193
Ball wrote: I'm not aware of anything there that takes longer than a day in winter. As I said, did epin. on Jan 18th. 12h car to car. Plenty of sunlight in fall to do pretty much anything.
Never said anything takes longer than a day, just that longer days can be good for long routes. Us mere mortals might not be capable of your cutting-edge 12hr speed ascent of Epinephrine. I doubt you were too warm in those chimneys.

To OP: for bouldering I would definitely go earlier in the year for bouldering!
JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 100
verticalworldtraveler wrote: I think it depends if your focus is more on single pitch cragging versus climbing long routes. Lots of the classic sport crags get sun most or all day and are good in the colder winter or early spring months. The bigger walls like in Black Velvet Canyon can have more shade and breeze to keep you cool in warmer months, plus more daylight is a good thing for long routes.
This is good beta. It really depends on what you want to climb. The prime season at the Gallery is very different from the prime season on the Rainbow Wall. In general, the sport crags are sunny and are best in cooler weather (November-March), while many of the long trad classics are higher elevation, shady, and breezy, and are best in warmer weather (October or April).
evan h · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 310

Bouldering at 70 degrees in the sun? Go in January.

JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 100
loafcrimp wrote:Honestly we'd probably be looking at as much bouldering as we could do (is there bouldering) and after that single pitch stuff.
There is a ton of bouldering; the guidebook is a solid inch thick. Much of it is excellent quality. You'll have a great time.

For bouldering, November and March would likely have comfortable "vacation" temps, but maybe too warm for try-hard bouldering. December-February would likely offer "sending temps". Again, depends on what you are looking for.
Stanley Baker · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20
JCM wrote: There is a ton of bouldering; the guidebook is a solid inch thick. Much of it is excellent quality. You'll have a great time. For bouldering, November and March would likely have comfortable "vacation" temps, but maybe too warm for try-hard bouldering. December-February would likely offer "sending temps". Again, depends on what you are looking for.
Not gonna lie. Our "try hard" bouldering is going to be v3's.

But that thread about lying makes me want to say v7's.
Thomas Beck · · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,040
loafcrimp wrote:Honestly we'd probably be looking at as much bouldering as we could do (is there bouldering) and after that single pitch stuff.
Harder boulder problems go down in January/February when the rock is cold. Sunny exposures in Calico area for sport climbing...The Gallery/ Sunny and Steep come to mind. Winter winds happen...cold wind coming from the north off the Great Basin. Best place to hide then is over by the Brass Wall(Trad climbing)

IMO October is a great month here. Right around Halloween the area often gets an equivocal storm. Spring break/Rendezvous is to be avoided. Multiple parties on every trade route. February and March for longer lines with southern exposure. Levitation 29 and so forth. Being high during a blow requires extra rope management to keep your lines from hanging up on flakes and getting stuck on the pull down.
February/March the Brownstone Wall is good
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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