Two days in St. George next week - suggestions?


Original Post
Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,000

My wife and I have two climbing days in St. George next week. What are the must-do areas/routes? Looking for fun 5.10s.... definitely thinking Snow Canyon at least one day so open to suggestions for there.

BackAtItAgain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 15

I'd check out the Prophesy Wall, pretty fun, easy access, can camp there as well.

Stu Ritchie · · Denver · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,730

Living on the Edge, on the Aftershock Wall is an absolute 'must do' in Snow Canyon.

Nate Liles · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0

Sunset Alley (~20 min from downtown) has very high quality limestone, a nice hang and some excellent .10s.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240
Andy Laakmann wrote:My wife and I have two climbing days in St. George next week. What are the must-do areas/routes? Looking for fun 5.10s.... definitely thinking Snow Canyon at least one day so open to suggestions for there.
As already mentioned, Living on the Edge is the best multipitch sport route in Snow Canyon. The first three pitches are sport and all are interesting to excellent. The 4th pitch is trad but if time is a factor I recommend rapping the route after the first three. You are not missing anything.

Atomic Indian is the absolute best 5.10 crack in Snow Canyon. The guide might call it 5.11- but most anyone will consider it 5.10+. Just a single pitch, but the best crack in the canyon.


Trouble no More is an excellent 5.10- 2 pitch route in Johnson Canyon


Prophecy Wall is soft grading and can get a bit boring for a competent 5.10 climber, but Harbingers is different and fun (arete to roof). Called 5.11- but most would say 5.10+. Fully bolted. I have done all the trad at Prophecy, but nothing of note.



My favorite spot for trad as long as it is not too hot, mostly winter, but a cool fall day would work, is Underworld.

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If you want something unique and remote, Phalanx of Will is interesting and different.



St. George is mostly known for its sport climbing, limestone and sandstone. My wife and have logged over 250 limestone sport climbs in Utah Hills alone (just one of many areas). If just cragging, Zen Wall is another favorite of mine in the winter or cool fall. Trad and sport.

Weird but fun 5.10+ at Zen called Drinking the Ocean


Good Luck with your trip. I just saw a bobcat in Snow Canyon last night.
Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,000

What is the status of the giant loose flake mentioned in the MP comments for Living on the Edge? Sounds like death flake ready to go?

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/living-on-the-edge/105718216

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 70
Dow Williams wrote: Atomic Indian is the absolute best 5.10 crack in Snow Canyon. The guide might call it 5.11- but most anyone will consider it 5.10+.
Well it would be if the chains were a foot lower or there was a draw on them. It would be 5.12 if the chains were a foot or so higher, go figure.

It's hard to go wrong with the climbing in St George. Options for sun or shade, you'll have a great time at pretty much any area. The Solstice is the only crag I did not really care for.
JK- · · SLC · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 58
BackAtItAgain wrote:I'd check out the Prophesy Wall, pretty fun, easy access, can camp there as well.
+1. Fun climbing on interesting features. Lots of great 2-3 pitch 5.10 sport routes. Lots of ways to climb something in your range and traverse over to set up a top rope and work on something way higher than your range.

One of my favorite crags in Southern Utah.
Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,000

Any suggestions for shady areas in Snow Canyon? Looking warmer then expected this week (we arrive later tonight).

Stu Ritchie · · Denver · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,730

Aftershock Wall, Circus Wall

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,067
Andy Laakmann wrote:What is the status of the giant loose flake mentioned in the MP comments for Living on the Edge? Sounds like death flake ready to go? mountainproject.com/v/livin...
The flake isn't loose as far as I know, it's is a huge detached flake that you climb right over, but I'm pretty sure it's not loose, just be careful and don't pull out on it. First pitch of living on the edge is really the money pitch anyway, with the second being good as well and the third where the flake is is just kind of meh. I really wouldn't worry about doing the fourth pitch, probably the best way to experience the route is doing just the first two pitches and missing the flake entirely.
Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

Andy, I have been climbing over that flake for 15 years. I personally consider the 3rd pitch a gem, but I am more of an alpine and trad climber and am use to much worse. I would advise the average sport climber to bail after two pitches as well. But the third pitch is good climbing if you are up for it. Enjoy.

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,000

We arrived and its bloody pouring. Presumably the sandstone will be too wet to climb tomorrow. Any good basalt or limestone climbing within 45 minutes? We've climbed at crawdad canyon years ago and don't feel the urge to return.

Matt Enlow · · Wyoming · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 553

Andy, I'm sitting out the same storm a little ways south of you in Limekiln Canyon (outside Mesquite, NV). Was good climbing over the weekend, and the limestone should be game again tomorrow. There's an area out here that's stacked with 5.10s that get high stars in the guidebook, though I haven't touched them myself. Say hi to our party of three if you come join

Oh, might want to put off driving out here until tomorrow though. Driving back a little after noon, the road looked like it was ready to wash away

Andy Laakmann · · Bend, OR · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,000

Just found Black Rocks. About 10 minutes from where we are staying - basalt. Fun enough for day?

Ryan Hill · · Oakland, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 30
Andy Laakmann wrote:Just found Black Rocks. About 10 minutes from where we are staying - basalt. Fun enough for day?
Short routes, but worthwhile for short day if everything else is wet.

If you can drive out of town I would go check out Solstice Wall in the Utah Hills. It gets sun and should dry out quickly. Not the finest limestone sport climbing in Utah, but plenty of 10's and reasonable access.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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