Where to practice placing trad gear from ground in Portland?


Original Post
plurpimpin · · PDX · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

Anybody have any suggestions for good places to practice placing trad gear from the ground in Portland? I'm new to trad and would like to practice placing gear more frequently than when I get out to the crag on weekends. I have no intention or need to climb, basically looking for rocks with cracks that I can walk around and place gear.

Rocky Butte is an obvious choice but anybody have any other suggestions? Also open to just ideas of places to check out - basically parks with rocks. I don't mind going for a little hike to check things out even if it's a bust. I live in SE so anything in the neighborhood no matter how small or lousy would be a bonus but that's getting pretty specific.

Dylan Pike · · SLC, UT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 35

Broughton bluff?

Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 595

Broughton's Bluff, Hanging Gardens left side. You can access the top. Plenty of columns of varying width to practice on.

Mike Brady · · Van Diesel, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 681

Hanging Gardens is probably the best option.

Carver could be decent. The base of the Chemistry slab has fairly diverse features but is not very expansive. The base of New Generation may offer a few options. TR'ing/mock leading Scotch and Soda could be pretty cool if you can climb 10+.

bryans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 10

I'd second carver as it's closet to SE. The far left (margaritaville, Neptune)also has some crack starts, especially if you are willing to climb 5 or so feet off the deck. Broughton has more options but carver has a 2 minute hike and a slightly shorther drive. (Years ago I chose Rocky Butte for my walkabout with my first set of nuts, and found more homeless camp caves and debris burnpiles than cracks.)

You could also walk the base of ozone or drop zone and find cracks a plenty to stuff gear in.

plurpimpin · · PDX · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

Sounds like Broughton is my best option, I work in East Vancouver so It's only 25 minutes from work. Probably my best option for dinking around in the evening.

diepj · · PDX · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I tried Rocky Butte right off the bat back in the day. Very limited opportunities there. What cracks there are (not many) are not at all clean.

bryans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 10

from east vancouver why would you not go to ozone? it also gets 10 times the traffic as broghton or carver so you'll run into people to chat with about gear placements, maybe give you a belay if you bring a harness. forget broughtons if you have ozone that close....

plurpimpin · · PDX · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

Only reason I wasn't thinking ozone is yeah it's only 20 min from work in Vancouver but then that puts me almost an hour from home in Portland. That's alittle more driving than I was hoping to do just to practice placing gear. Would be a totally different story if I was trying to climb.

bryans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 10

well, in PDX we are lucky to have these dinky little crags all around the east side of the city. have fun out there!

Andrew Child · · Santa Clara · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 655

You could make an adjustable crack with some bolts and scrap wood. Real rock is obviously better, but its still a fun project.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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