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Devil's Lake - Drive by Bouldering


Original Post
A. Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

I'll be passing by Devil's lake on Thursday 10/20. I would get there in the early afternoon, and spend one night, leaving very early on Friday morning. What should be my plan to squeeze in some bouldering? I was at the lake a couple times in the late 90s, but never bouldered there.

Note, I am not a boulder-er persay, and a 5.10 sport climber, so I'd be looking for super easy problems.

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
A. Michael wrote:I'll be passing by Devil's lake on Thursday 10/20. I would get there in the early afternoon, and spend one night, leaving very early on Friday morning. What should be my plan to squeeze in some bouldering? I was at the lake a couple times in the late 90s, but never bouldered there. Note, I am not a boulder-er persay, and a 5.10 sport climber, so I'd be looking for super easy problems.
North Shore boulders. Park in the lot at the northeast corner of the lake and walk across the road and into the woods 20-30 yards. Boom.
A. Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40
Seth Jones wrote: North Shore boulders. Park in the lot at the northeast corner of the lake and walk across the road and into the woods 20-30 yards. Boom.
Awesome, I was hoping for solution this simple! Thanks!
A. Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

If anybody wants to hang out that day, send me a message. I won't have a crash pad with me. I do not wish to turn an ankle or break my ass falling off of V1 problems.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110

Your backpack and a thick flannel shirt piled on the sharpest boulder: It worked for John Gill for DL highballs' like 60 some years ago; why not still today?

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
Woodchuck ATC wrote:Your backpack and a thick flannel shirt piled on the sharpest boulder: It worked for John Gill for DL highballs' like 60 some years ago; why not still today?
Yeah well I hear John Gill always landed on his feet like a fuckin cat. I don't :)
A. Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

I did a short recon on my way north today. The rocks were right where you said they'd be. But yeah, I'm gonna need some crash pads, and a spotter. I'll be heading back through on Friday. Maybe I'll hang around looking all forlorn until somebody shows up.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110

Battery operated pump and lots of inflatable air mattresses..amd a patch kit....Cheaper than a pad where good full size ones start over 200 bucks.

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
Woodchuck ATC wrote:Battery operated pump and lots of inflatable air mattresses..amd a patch kit....Cheaper than a pad where good full size ones start over 200 bucks.
this is terrible advice lol
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110

uhh,puncture proof inflatable fuel bladder?

Sean Peter · · IL · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 40

Look up LeaningTower/Tombstone wall in the east bluff south east bouldering section of DL. Have a further hike (up the CCC trail then several hundred yards west) but super flat landings- and tons of variations you can make up from super easy to far more challenging. But if I had no pad that would be a good spot to hit.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110
Sean Peter wrote:Look up LeaningTower/Tombstone wall in the east bluff south east bouldering section of DL. Have a further hike (up the CCC trail then several hundred yards west) but super flat landings- and tons of variations you can make up from super easy to far more challenging. But if I had no pad that would be a good spot to hit.
Agree, this is an old traditional 'bouldering' spot, when the term only meant to warm up on something very easy. One wall has flat landings, and is maybe 13 to 14 ft high. Even the classic 'Tombstone' boulder is under 20 ft high, and a fairly good landing area. All of it has easy walk up if you want to top rope some 5.1's to 5.5's too. Then you also have Leaning Tower, right behind you with some awesome routes to do, bouldering or on rope.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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