Trapps top rope (nosedive and retribution)


Original Post
JRZane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0

On my walks down the carriage road I regulalrly see a lot of groups top roping Nosedive and Retribution early in Uberfall section and was wondering if there's a way to set up top ropes without leading the route first. A friend and I are most advanced in our group and both these leads still seem a little out of reach. I'd really love to TR them first before giving them a lead.

I know Bunny (5.4) runs adjacent left and there appears to be a hand traverse to the anchors, can anyone confirm?

Going up this weekend and the forecast looks great!

Thanks!

Bob Johnson · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 53

You can access the Nosedive/Retribution anchor from Bunny. It's not really even a hand traverse. Once above the roof on Bunny, just angle up and to the right along the path of least resistance up to the anchor. It's 5.6ish. You will also want to set a directional above whatever route you are TRing because the anchor is directly in between the two. Also, try not to tie up the routes for too long because other parties may want to lead them.

Rob D. · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30
Bob Johnson wrote: Also, try not to tie up the routes for too long because other parties may want to lead them.
I agree
JRZane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0

Great, thanks for the beta.

If someone came up and even looked like they wanted to lead, and even if our party hadn't all
Gotten a lap, we would be more than happy to pull the rope. I'd love to watch someone lead them as these routes have been a hopeful long-term project of mine and my skills (and nerves!) are nearing the grade. It's not like it'd take more than a few minutes to run up Bunny and set the rope again.

Thanks again.

By the way, any other recommendations of harder (5.9-5.11) routes we could TR by leading a nearby easier route?

mnjsan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 240

You can scramble up the left side of the gerdie block to set up red cabbage 5.9- and red cabbage right 10a.

These aren't in the uberfalls but figured I'd mention them.

Lead absurdland 5.8 to TR J'Accuse 10b and Never Never Land 10a

Lead credibility gap 5.6 to TR welcome to the gunks 10a

Lead sleep walk to TR Ants Line 5.9 and Ents Line 5.11

Agree with past posters not to tie up the routes especially on busy weekends when people are trying to lead.

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85

This is the third time I have added and deleted to this topic.

There is almost nothing that can't be top roped in the Gunks
if you need to ask you're still to scetchy To be doing so with out help.
That is not to say you won't learn how by doing, you will.
I could just list them all too, but I don't think that that is a good idea.
(For example, All the climbs on steep side of the high E.)
it is the out door gym go to the top, safely rap in, to one of those bolted stations .
Tension traverse to set directionals & *anchors! (you know what that means right?)

Edit
Of course. GunkieMike knows! ( *Triple placements for top rope anchors, just sayin')
V , V , V , V , V

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,865
JRZane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0
Michael Schneider wrote:This is the third time I have added and deleted to this topic. There is almost nothing that can't be top roped in the Gunks if you need to ask you're still to scetchy To be doing so with out help. That is not to say you won't learn how by doing, you will. I could just list them all too, but I don't think that that is a good idea. (For example, All the climbs on steep side of the high E.) it is the out door gym go to the top, safely rap in, to one of those bolted stations . Tension traverse to set directionals & *anchors! (you know what that means right?) Edit Of course. GunkieMike knows! ( *Triple placements for top rope anchors, just sayin') V , V , V , V , V
Maybe I could have clarified by asking about quality. Our group is perfectly proficient in building gear top rope anchors, thanks for the concern, but I was hoping someone was going to say, "hey, you can lead This 6 next to That 10R" and point us in a direction that would maximize our enjoyment. I don't know the Trapps like many others and just wanted to use the community's expertise in the area. I wasn't asking for instructions on how to do so.

For instance, saying check out the right side of High E Buttress was very informative, thank you.
Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 25

Both climbs are G-rated and you can place a piece every 6 inches. Just lead them!!!!!!!!~

JRZane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0
Jon Frisby wrote:Both climbs are G-rated and you can place a piece every 6 inches. Just lead them!!!!!!!!~
You are referring to Both nosedive and retribution? The pro kind of seemed so by eye, but I've only ever seen anyone on TR. Call me a mental wimp but I strongly prefer to TR or follow a route at my limit before jumping on it. I haven't been climbing long enough to trust only my visual assessment. One guy in my party is def a bit stronger climber, maybe I can watch him lead it first!
Logan Schiff · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 45

You can do Retro-Bunny 5.10+ to the right of Bunny with a directional off the Retribution anchor, I believe. Nothing special but worth a lap. The 12 directly below the anchor, No Solution, is fun even if you just end of working the 5.11 roof move. and 9ish face moves below.

Gerdie Block has a 11- on the far right side you can TR in addition to Red Cabbage and its variations.

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85
JRZane wrote: Maybe I could have clarified by asking about quality. Our group is perfectly proficient in building gear top rope anchors, thanks for the concern, but I was hoping someone was going to say, "hey, you can lead This 6 next to That 10R" and point us in a direction that would maximize our enjoyment. I don't know the Trapps like many others and just wanted to use the community's expertise in the area. I wasn't asking for instructions on how to do so. For instance, saying check out the right side of High E Buttress was very informative, thank you.
Also the very front of the High E, Block,
(at the ground to the ramp out right)
The sketchy start of Endure Man(?) I think that is what it is called.

Also, though you did not ask, have you gotten on the link ups? Like:
Big Chimney to Miss Bailey's, ?
{Which gets your Top rope over) 'Barking Up The Wrong Tree'
and
Something I called Cosmic Charlie, that
goes from Travels with Charlie thru -*zRevenge Of The Relics -
then climbs the crux of Strictly From Nowhere, where you can Tr 'Epiclepsy'

( top ropes, Kama Sutra, Silly Dickin', The *Moihel, Creature Features, Disco Death March - Fetus - Queasy - Maria Redirect - Vicious Rumors )
Rob D. · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30
JRZane wrote: You are referring to Both nosedive and retribution? The pro kind of seemed so by eye, but I've only ever seen anyone on TR. Call me a mental wimp but I strongly prefer to TR or follow a route at my limit before jumping on it. I haven't been climbing long enough to trust only my visual assessment. One guy in my party is def a bit stronger climber, maybe I can watch him lead it first!
both have very good gear. Gear at the bottom of nosedive I think is a little thin but the moves are easier. Retribution gear gets a little more thin at the top, when again, the climbing has chilled out.

I agree. just go for it.
Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85

The real difficulties are not the gear or the climbing it is the stage on which they are set.
The center stage of the Uber Fall, with polished holds and to much chalk. The spectators, combined
with passing crowds, can get into ones' head, disrupting focus. Causing a fall or a take (a hang) instead of a clean send.

It dawns on me; that gym training has probably helped to make it less strange to climb
In front of a crowd. Climbing at the Uber Fall is aproxamatly the same as the way one is also on display at the gym.
Wth supportive climbers and disinterested climbers, hanging climbers, and some guilty of micro-aggressions too.

Jon Frisby · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 25
JRZane wrote: You are referring to Both nosedive and retribution? The pro kind of seemed so by eye, but I've only ever seen anyone on TR. Call me a mental wimp but I strongly prefer to TR or follow a route at my limit before jumping on it. I haven't been climbing long enough to trust only my visual assessment. One guy in my party is def a bit stronger climber, maybe I can watch him lead it first!
Don't mean to push you beyond what you're comfy with but yeah the gear is amazing ad I toproped them first and kinda wish I had just led them straight up. Especially nosedive. You get gear from awesome rests all the way until the crux piece
theeinjem · · New Paltz, NY · Joined May 2016 · Points: 13

I've seen that climb led a few times, the gnarliest being just after a downpour. Why not ask the group how they set it up next time you see them? I hear the Wednesday night group is pretty chill :P

Pat A · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

I suggest going for the on-sight. There's nothing like going up there not really knowing what you're getting into. I went for the on-sight on both of these. Sent Nosedive, fell off Retribution. The gear is good enough as long as you have some skill placing.

Bob Johnson · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 53

Don't let people talk you into leading it if you're not feeling it. We all have different ideas of how we like to progress in climbing. I prefer a conservative approach where progress is made by slowly accumulating success on lower grades. If you're unsure, then I'd suggest leading some 9s first. Nosedive and Retribution aren't going anywhere and there are enough 10s at the Gunks you can onsight later.

Pat A · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

Oh sorry, I'm not saying you should go trying to lead Nosedive or Retribution if you're not ready. You should really have a bunch of successful 5.9 on-sights. I'm just saying they are good quality, protectable, 10a/b that you should save for an on-sight when you're ready. Because you just don't get the same experience if you've top roped a route.

JRZane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0

for anyone still interested: got there early enough saturday to lead bunny and traverse over to drop ropes on Retribution and Nosedive. Also dropped a couple ropes on Gerdie as we had a group of 10. after a couple warm up runs on Gerdie I gave Nosedive a run on top rope. I actually came off once down low where that down-compression move to the top of the small left facing corner is. But after that I ran up to the crux, took a rest (on the rope) and proceeded up to the directional.

Feeling kind of brave I loaded up on my small gear and gave it a go. I got cleanly (although not gracefully) up to the crux, stuck as many pieces in as I could without blocking my hand holds and beasted up to the anchor. This WAS NOT a clean climb and I rested on gear 2-3 times before working the nerve and muscle to get through it. This is how I know Im still not ready to lead harder stuff yet. Every once in a while my mind will lose focus and Ill get scared as hell.

never even got to touch Retribution as the group moved down to do some easier multi.

ChapelPondGirl · · Keene, NY · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

Not to be a Debbie Downer about the gear on Nosedive, but the first piece is a very small wire, and you have to make a committing move up to a ledge. If the wire blew you will deck....heck you may deck if it doesn't blow. The next piece is also a very small wire before you clip the pin. Both wires are excellent, if placed correctly, but still necky for a budding leader.

Nosedive will be there next year, and the year after that. Lead it when you feel comfortable leading it, or not at all! It's your climbing, no one elses. Cheers.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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