Sport climbing lies..


Original Post
Walter Galli · · Sint Maarten · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,096

Hey guys how many of you in MP can do sport route 5.14d and how many can do bouldering v13? Do you guys think that in this forum people lie about wath their real grade is?

Jason Young · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,000
Andre Dahlman · · Washington DC · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 115

Who gives a shit?

Eric Carlos · · GJ · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 30

Go to 8a.nu for that info

Walter Galli · · Sint Maarten · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,096
Eric Carlos wrote:Go to 8a.nu for that info
NICE, good info Txs Carlos, good site.
Mark Berenblum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 15

Yes. Of course people exaggerate these things. Climbers overstate their capabilities, and route setters at the gym often practice serious grade inflation (maybe unintentionally? maybe to please their customers' egos?). The combination means that people inflate their reported abilities, which are based on already-inflated ratings. An NYC climbers who frequents the Cliffs (my home gym) might think s/he can climb 5.11 based on what they can do in the gym, and might state it as 5.12 when trying to impress their friends. When they head to the Gunks for the first time, they soon learn they're more like a 5.8 - 5.9 climber.

All of that said, if you want to see some graphs and things, check this out: naftaliharris.com/blog/clim...

It's a very small sample, but it seems fairly objective.

Stanley Baker · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

I did a v5 once. In the gym.

C devries · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

I lowered off a 5.6 classic so I could drop a fear induced poop

Danger-Russ Gordon · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 200
C devries wrote:I lowered off a 5.6 classic so I could drop a fear induced poop
Respect!
NorCalNomad · · San Francisco · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 55
Andre Dahlman wrote:Who gives a shit?
+1
Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,055

I refuse to participate in a sport where lies aren't an integral part of the fun.

C devries · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0

I'm known to send 5.10 cracks at a respectable 5.8 c1

Hugo Watt · · Southern California · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0
C devries wrote:I'm known to send 5.10 cracks at a respectable 5.8 c1
+1
Adam Gellman · · Jersey City · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 115
Danger-Russ Gordon wrote: Respect!
only allowed to pump out on a 5.6 at the gunks (sorry, not spot climbing)
Alex Rogers · · Sydney, Australia · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 15
Andre Dahlman wrote:Who gives a shit?
C devries
Phil Sakievich · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 30
AdamGellman wrote: only allowed to pump out on a 5.6 at the gunks (sorry, not spot climbing)
A little off topic, but are the Gunks really that sandbagged? I've never climbed there, but I see people on these forums saying things like 5.8 at the Gunks is a 5.11 every where else on a semi regular basis. Granted indoor outdoor is different, and it is generally harder to climb outside/indoor is soft. But is a Gunks 5.8 that much harder than a J-Tree 5.8 or a valley 5.8? There are old school areas all over the country. Were the OG's at the Gunks way more G than the other OG's?
Robert Michael · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 101

It was TR, not sport, but this reminds me of the time I overheard the leader of a gym group telling his troops that the climb they were on was something like 5.7. It was 5.3, albeit a tough 5.3 with a 5.8 direct start, but none of them did the direct start.

I was going to keep my mouth shut, but the leader asked me about the route, so I told him the truth. He seemed a little embarrassed, more so when I said it was a route I liked to practice leading on.

On the other hand, I guess I was Chris Sharma to them for the day, so hey.

Medic741 · · Red Hook, New York · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 85

Nevermind

Alex CV · · Greater NYC area · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 50

Psakievich, I have been a Gunks climber since the 90's and my observation is that some route grades have been slowly brought in line closer with other areas. For example, the popular Dangler variation of Three Pines was once called 5.8, but is now listed as 5.10.

I think we as climbers can most accurately grade routes when they are close to our limit. At the grades that I am climbing most often, the climbs seem pretty accurate. I don't travel extensively but I do take a climbing trip every year and have sent routes at the same grade pretty much everywhere I have been.

I think that there are a few key classic routes that have maintained a sandbag legacy grade which end up being used as a standard gauge. But they are not necessarily representative. Modern Times is pretty tough for 5.8.

I think the other factor that throws some visiting climbers is the discontinuous nature of Gunks climbing. Hard cruxes separated by great rests. Climbers used to endurance style routes may find the bouldery cruxes difficult.

Anyway, there is my two cents.

- Alex

NorCalNomad · · San Francisco · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 55
Colonel Mustard wrote:I refuse to participate in a sport where lies aren't an integral part of the fun.
hahahahahaha
Adam Gellman · · Jersey City · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 115
psakievich wrote: A little off topic, but are the Gunks really that sandbagged? I've never climbed there, but I see people on these forums saying things like 5.8 at the Gunks is a 5.11 every where else on a semi regular basis. Granted indoor outdoor is different, and it is generally harder to climb outside/indoor is soft. But is a Gunks 5.8 that much harder than a J-Tree 5.8 or a valley 5.8? There are old school areas all over the country. Were the OG's at the Gunks way more G than the other OG's?
I don't have a ton of perspective from other areas, but the gunks does have incredibly steep routes for grades of 5.6-5.8. My first day at the gunks I was shocked to be shaking out the pump on the headwall of High Exposure. Probably more that it is very different climbing than it being purely harder.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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