New to NC, Rack Upgrade Suggestions


Original Post
Jack Servedio · · Raleigh,NC · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 20

After moving to NC from Madison, WI - I want to make sure I have adequate gear for around here and at least a "Standard NC Rack." I've found a few threads on here about what comprises a standard NC rack, but it was all over the map.

Here's what I've got:
1x Set of Wallnuts
1x Set of Peenuts and Offsets
1x MC Purple to Orange
1x C4 .5-3 with doubles of .75, 1 and 2
1x Pink and Red Tricams

Now, I hate carrying that much gear - at Devils Lake I'd normally only carry half a set of wires and 6 cams and be able to sew most of the easy and moderate climbs up pretty well.

What should I add to this and what don't I need? Also, how many of you opt for a pull cord for rapping instead of lugging up a second rope?

Barrett Pauer · · Brevard, NC · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 225

Set of metolius TCUs from grey to red, maybe a couple extra alpine draws, maybe a #4 BD for some routes

Brian Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 228

You're fine on nuts. I would carry half those wires with an emphasis on the mid-size. You will use nuts more or less depending on whatever crag you frequent. The rock is pretty diverse here.

You're probably going to want to get doubles in the blue #1 MC, yellow #2 MC, orange #3 MC, and the .5 C4. The orange mastercam/.4 C4 and the .5 C4 are by far my most used pieces. I personally typically carry 3 of each and only carry a single #2 C4. You will be placing cams from blue or yellow mastercam to .5 C4 all the time.

Eventually you might want to pick up a single grey 00 Master Cam. Maybe eventually a #4, though you can stay busy for years without it. I carry 10 60cm runners.

I use a 6mm cord as a second rope for rappels when necessary.

Brian Payst · · Carrboro,NC · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

That's pretty good and should see you through a lot of NC routes. Maybe fill in some doubles on the C4s, .5-2 or just borrow stuff from your partner as needed.

Worth noting that most NC routes are a lot longer than Devil'ss Lake routes so you will be carrying more.

Jack Servedio · · Raleigh,NC · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 20
Barrett Pauer wrote:Set of metolius TCUs from grey to red, maybe a couple extra alpine draws, maybe a #4 BD for some routes
I've got a crapload of alpines and a bunch of double lengths, but why specifically TCUs when I've got tiny 4CUs in the exact same range?

Do you just like doubling up on small cams and having a 3CU option or do TCUs actually just fit much better than the other options like C3s or micro 4CUs? Are offsets a worthwhile alternative to TCUs?

I just borrow friends big gear if I know I'm going to need it, though I'm sure I'll but some bigger C4s eventually.
Jack Servedio · · Raleigh,NC · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 20
Brian Abram wrote:You're fine on nuts. I would carry half those wires with an emphasis on the mid-size. You will use nuts more or less depending on whatever crag you frequent. The rock is pretty diverse here. You're probably going to want to get doubles in the blue #1 MC, yellow #2 MC, orange #3 MC, and the .5 C4. The orange mastercam/.4 C4 and the .5 C4 are by far my most used pieces. I personally typically carry 3 of each and only carry a single #2 C4. You will be placing cams from blue or yellow mastercam to .5 C4 all the time. Eventually you might want to pick up a single grey 00 Master Cam. Maybe eventually a #4, though you can stay busy for years without it. I carry 10 60cm runners. I use a 6mm cord as a second rope for rappels when necessary.
Thanks! No matter where I climb I think I place my Yellow and Orange Mastercams more than anything else. Plus those tiny cams are so light so I don't mind the doubles. Just gotta find some of the older style ones in good shape.

I also carry 10 single length runners and 1 or 2 double length runners (or 2 more if bolted anchors), so I'm all set there.

Glad to hear about the pull cord - I use a 6mm too and was thinking the clean granite domes would be perfect for that without getting anything stuck.
Sam Stephens · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 740

Most of what has been said is good. My normal go to is single 00, 0 Master cam, double aliens green to red (blue to orange Master cam), red tcu, BD .75, double #1 and #2, single #3. Single set of offsets and BD regular nuts from #3-#10? Gets almost everything done. I'll bring a #4 or extra #3 if I know I need it. Tricams can be handy on belays or for keeping a rack light on easy routes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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