Purcell prusik slings as Screamers?
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I did this. Seems to work well. |
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Eric Moss wrote: I did this. Seems to work well. I don’t see any reason in the world why you would want to do that. |
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Mark Hudon wrote: I make it with a 3-2 wrap to lessen the force on the second bolt in a factor 2 fall, as a part of a sport solo belay. |
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Okay, I’ll go for that. |
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Or you could by slings and screamers... the exact things made for what you want them to do.... just sayin' |
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EB wrote: Or you could by slings and screamers... the exact things made for what you want them to do.... just sayin' Screamer would not cut it for me, activation energy too low. I'd have to use two in parallel. Plus i always carry a 7mm tied sling, which can quickly be made into Purcell prusik, plus this is cheaper and can be customized to my needs by adjusting the wraps. |
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Don’t create a situation that doesn’t exist. |
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Mark Hudon wrote: Don’t create a situation that doesn’t exist. Sorry, I should have been more specific. I'm not currently using this for gear, though I suppose I could. This is for a specific sport solo setup, where there is no ground anchor. I clip the rope end on the first bolt with a Kong Kisa, then clip the second bolt with the purcell and a clove hitch in the rope. These two together comprise a redundant ground anchor of sorts. The rest is rigged as normal.The reason I use a Purcell "screamer" on the second bolt is because if I fall on that bolt and it breaks, i could be SOL. |
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You are creating a “solution” to a “problem” that barely, barely, remotely barely exists. I’m sure the chances of you getting killed in a traffic accident far exceed the chances of the second bolt pulling. |
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Rope Lab carried out some tests a while back to see whether Purcell Prusiks were suitable for use in a fall arrest system (https://www.ropelab.com.au/members-purcell-prusik-behaviour-during-falls/). The answer is no. |
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Michael M wrote: Rope Lab carried out some tests a while back to see whether Purcell Prusiks were suitable for use in a fall arrest system (https://www.ropelab.com.au/members-purcell-prusik-behaviour-during-falls/). The answer is no.Why is the answer no? I wish we could see the answer for less than 60 bucks |
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Eric Moss wrote: Why is the answer no? I wish we could see the answer for less than 60 bucks The prusik attached to the climbing rope takes the force of a fall and cinches down / disintegrates rather than the purcell prusik attached to the cordelette loop. |
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Michael M wrote: There is no prusik attached to the climbing rope... Wait, are you saying that a prusik attached directly to a rope would work arrest fall, but not prusik attached to cordelette? That doesn't make any sense. Anyway, prusik attached to climbing rope is out of the question as I'm not going to sacrifice the integrity of the climbing rope. But maybe I'm mistaking your meaning here. |