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Purcell prusik slings as Screamers?


SS Minox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

The part of the wall failed due to an infilled stress fracture thin layer of crystal? The walls are limestone & I know it was a long shot placement, so I tested it with the aider and it blew. Most of the walls combine free & direct aid.

I am constantly working on my placements

Eric Moss · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95

I did this.  Seems to work well.
https://youtu.be/5mHj8eIW7t8

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415
Eric Moss wrote: I did this.  Seems to work well.
https://youtu.be/5mHj8eIW7t8

I don’t see any reason in the world why you would want to do that. 

Eric Moss · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95
Mark Hudon wrote:

I don’t see any reason in the world why you would want to do that. 

I make it with a 3-2 wrap to lessen the force on the second bolt in a factor 2 fall, as a part of a sport solo belay.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

Okay, I’ll go for that.

 I’ve done the same, with an actual Screamer, right off the anchor on aid pitches I’ve soloed. 

EB · · Winona · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,094

Or you could by slings and screamers... the exact things made for what you want them to do.... just sayin'

Eric Moss · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95
EB wrote: Or you could by slings and screamers... the exact things made for what you want them to do.... just sayin'

Screamer would not cut it for me, activation energy too low.  I'd have to use two in parallel.  Plus i always carry a 7mm tied sling, which can quickly be made into Purcell prusik, plus this is cheaper and can be customized to my needs by adjusting the wraps.  

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

Don’t create a situation that doesn’t exist.

How hairball is the climbing you are doing? What is the real live probability of actually falling onto the anchor? I’ve done 25 El Cap aid walls (all the trades and a lot of other pretty difficult routes) and have only had serious sketchy aid off the anchor two or three times. I’ve been climbing for 46 years and can’t really remember a route that was seriously difficult with sketch gear right off the anchor.

Eric Moss · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95
Mark Hudon wrote: Don’t create a situation that doesn’t exist.

How hairball is the climbing you are doing? What is the real live probability of actually falling onto the anchor? I’ve done 25 El Cap aid walls (all the trades and a lot of other pretty difficult routes) and have only had serious sketchy aid off the anchor two or three times. I’ve been climbing for 46 years and can’t really remember a route that was seriously difficult with sketch gear right off the anchor.

Sorry, I should have been more specific.  I'm not currently using this for gear, though I suppose I could.

This is for a specific sport solo setup, where there is no ground anchor.  I clip the rope end on the first bolt with a Kong Kisa, then clip the second bolt with the purcell and a clove hitch in the rope.  These two together comprise a redundant ground anchor of sorts.  The rest is rigged as normal.

The reason I use a Purcell "screamer" on the second bolt is because if I fall on that bolt and it breaks, i could be SOL.
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

You are creating a “solution” to a “problem” that barely, barely, remotely barely exists. I’m sure the chances of you getting killed in a traffic accident far exceed the chances of the second bolt pulling.

I can’t imagine that your Purcell will contribute to a bolt not failing that otherwise would.

Michael M · · Rockville, MD · Joined May 2018 · Points: 20

Rope Lab carried out some tests a while back to see whether Purcell Prusiks were suitable for use in a fall arrest system (https://www.ropelab.com.au/members-purcell-prusik-behaviour-during-falls/). The answer is no.

If you need a shock absorber, use Yates Screamers or E-climb DISSIP (reusable).

Eric Moss · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95
Michael M wrote: Rope Lab carried out some tests a while back to see whether Purcell Prusiks were suitable for use in a fall arrest system (https://www.ropelab.com.au/members-purcell-prusik-behaviour-during-falls/). The answer is no.

If you need a shock absorber, use Yates Screamers or E-climb DISSIP (reusable).
Why is the answer no?  I wish we could see the answer for less than 60 bucks
Michael M · · Rockville, MD · Joined May 2018 · Points: 20
Eric Moss wrote: Why is the answer no?  I wish we could see the answer for less than 60 bucks

The prusik attached to the climbing rope takes the force of a fall and cinches down / disintegrates rather than the purcell prusik attached to the cordelette loop. 

Eric Moss · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 95
Michael M wrote:

The prusik attached to the climbing rope takes the force of a fall and cinches down / disintegrates rather than the purcell prusik attached to the cordelette loop. 

There is no prusik attached to the climbing rope... Wait, are you saying that a prusik attached directly to a rope would work arrest fall, but not prusik attached to cordelette?  That doesn't make any sense.  Anyway, prusik attached to climbing rope is out of the question as I'm not going to sacrifice the integrity of the climbing rope.  But maybe I'm mistaking your meaning here.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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