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Quad anchor vs Master Point


Original Post
Jamesruiz123 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0

When should each of these be used? Or does it really not matter at all?

Don Ferris · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

Short of pulling up a jeep, neither should ever be used. Sliding x on two good pieces with a third tied in 100% of the time.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Jamesruiz123 wrote:When should each of these be used? Or does it really not matter at all?
Either is fine.
Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 650

James, you are about to get way more information than you really need. I prefer building a master point style anchor 90% of the time, but it really depends on the situation. Read an anchor building book if you haven't already and, if you can, find a more experienced friend to go through this with you in person.

I prefer master point anchors because they are much quicker to tie than a quad. However, a quad makes sense to some people when every anchor is bolted, because you can pre-tie the quad and leave it tied all day. In my own climbing, I rarely get to use bolted anchors (barring the local crags) so I build anchors off of trees, boulders, and/or gear. Depending on the situation, I use anywhere from 2-4 pieces of gear. It all comes down to educating yourself and using your judgment when you apply that knowledge.

Doug18 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0
Nick Sweeney wrote:James, you are about to get way more information than you really need. I prefer building a master point style anchor 90% of the time, but it really depends on the situation. Read an anchor building book if you haven't already and, if you can, find a more experienced friend to go through this with you in person. I prefer master point anchors because they are much quicker to tie than a quad. However, a quad makes sense to some people when every anchor is bolted, because you can pre-tie the quad and leave it tied all day. In my own climbing, I rarely get to use bolted anchors (barring the local crags) so I build anchors off of trees, boulders, and/or gear. Depending on the situation, I use anywhere from 2-4 pieces of gear. It all comes down to educating yourself and using your judgment when you apply that knowledge.
Agree
Jamesruiz123 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
Nick Sweeney wrote:James, you are about to get way more information than you really need. I prefer building a master point style anchor 90% of the time, but it really depends on the situation. Read an anchor building book if you haven't already and, if you can, find a more experienced friend to go through this with you in person. I prefer master point anchors because they are much quicker to tie than a quad. However, a quad makes sense to some people when every anchor is bolted, because you can pre-tie the quad and leave it tied all day. In my own climbing, I rarely get to use bolted anchors (barring the local crags) so I build anchors off of trees, boulders, and/or gear. Depending on the situation, I use anywhere from 2-4 pieces of gear. It all comes down to educating yourself and using your judgment when you apply that knowledge.
Thank you! More information is better
I've been climbing with my friend that is experienced in climbing but not on the ropes. Im more experienced with the knots and ropes cause I learned everything in my fire academy and I'm just applying it to the climbing cause all the knots and anchors are the same. So I'm just getting the hang of things on small climbs that are easily reached from the back to set up the anchor. But I know there is a lot more I can learn.
Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340
Jamesruiz123 wrote:When should each of these be used? Or does it really not matter at all?
A quad works great with a bolted anchor.

A cordellete works great with a trad anchor (3 or more pieces).
Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 765
Michael C wrote: A quad works great with a bolted anchor. A cordellete works great with a trad anchor (3 or more pieces).
Message in coming!
KeithS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 550

A quad works great with a 3 piece anchor as well...

JK- · · SLC · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 58

Try 'em both. Lots. Then pick whichever one you like better for you for your daily driver. Then you'll also have enough practice with both to judge when the other might be more appropriate, and the experience to apply it.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

For most applications, you don't need dynamic ";equalization"; and redundancy/eliminating extension/efficiency is the most important, so tying a masterpoint will probably serve you better most of the time. Quads are nice for large groups on multipitches, or where you anticipate having to change stances (e.g.:belaying second straight up then having a next pitch that starts with a traverse).

A quad is quite frankly overkill on bolted anchors and fairly pointless for most situations. A common mistake when learning to build anchors is that people place too much emphasis on rigging methods and not enough on bomber primary placements.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Lol, yes! And the Sisyphean MP anchor thread boulder has officially reached the top of the hill. Time to knock it back down and start again!

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Someone really needs to make a "Yer Gunna die!" shirt.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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