Newhalem Beta
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I have yet to actually climb there, but I've driven through enough times that it's pretty high on my list. How much is actually developed out there? I assume there's more than just Ryan's Wall (which is all that's published). Last weekend I saw a couple guys on a roadside wall right next to the Diablo turn off, and between there and Ryan's Wall, there's so many huge, steep walls on the hillside that look like they house a ton of potential if they aren't developed already. Anything that stays dry? |
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PM me and I can give you a bit of info. |
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I would LOVE some Newhalem Rock beta as well (please)!! |
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That climb you're talking about was put up by a friend of mine, Calvin. The offwidth is ~5.7 (if you're describing the one I think you're talking about, of course it feels harder than that because it's awfulwidth, but is made much easier by a couple of bomber heel-toe cams), and there's a face climb down and to the right (5.10-) and another crack up and left around the corner (~5.7, interesting hand crack, chockstone to be slung, and a couple of two-finger pockets on the left face). |
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I remember calling up the Wilderness Information Center in June since it sounded like some of the walls were closed in the wake of the fires. They told me they were going to reopen them once an evaluation or something had occurred, but they didn't know when that would happen. Any idea what the deal with that whole thing is? |
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Ryan's Wall has been reopened as of July, except for a few routes on the far uphill end.
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5.7 eh? Dayum...I'm no stranger to offwidths -but understand that getting on something unknown can often ramp up the grades. Yeah, heel-toe placements, and a nice looking face climb just to the right of it sounds like the same place. The anchors (at the top of the corner) were two eye bolts? Please pass along a thank you to your buddy for putting it up! |
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Since I'm not developing the area myself, I don't want to share that info here, but shoot my a PM and I can give you some beta. |