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Newhalem Beta


Original Post
Matthew Tangeman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 35

I have yet to actually climb there, but I've driven through enough times that it's pretty high on my list. How much is actually developed out there? I assume there's more than just Ryan's Wall (which is all that's published). Last weekend I saw a couple guys on a roadside wall right next to the Diablo turn off, and between there and Ryan's Wall, there's so many huge, steep walls on the hillside that look like they house a ton of potential if they aren't developed already. Anything that stays dry?

Gavin W · · Surrey, BC · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 183

PM me and I can give you a bit of info.

Mellow Yellow · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

I would LOVE some Newhalem Rock beta as well (please)!!

I have walked along the base of the walls from the pullout (north side of Highway 20), and noticed a few bolts here and there on what mostly looked to be some pretty sporty stuff. There are several nice looking cracks as well, especially one striking corner at the east end of the parking -you CAN'T miss it and can see it even while driving...noticing some anchor bolts at the top of it, I came back the next weekend with some bigger gear and got on it.

It's pretty sweet, though again I think most folks would be happy to have the right gear for it -my first piece piece was an old #4 on the ledge about a quarter or third of the way up, where the business starts! I then got in a #4.5 (camalot) and walked a new #6 to about 8-10 feet from the top, about where some face holds and ledges appear on the left.

While on it, some cops and rangers showed up, but only to deal with some traffic stuff -they noticed us but did't seem to pay any mind (we weren't sure what the deal with climbing here was since I NEVER see anyone climbing there).

Anyways, that's all I can offer -wish I had a pic of that super fun corner (5.9+ maybe?) but alas, it's Vantage / Tieton season for me now...

Gavin W · · Surrey, BC · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 183

That climb you're talking about was put up by a friend of mine, Calvin. The offwidth is ~5.7 (if you're describing the one I think you're talking about, of course it feels harder than that because it's awfulwidth, but is made much easier by a couple of bomber heel-toe cams), and there's a face climb down and to the right (5.10-) and another crack up and left around the corner (~5.7, interesting hand crack, chockstone to be slung, and a couple of two-finger pockets on the left face).

To clarify, these routes are in the city of Newhalem. If you're standing at the old train and looking across the road, they are on the right side of the wall (you can work your way up from the end of the parking lot).

AFAIK the park hasn't made a fuss about these routes, but if we want to keep it that way then please be careful to clean up when you leave, and try to avoid drawing too much attention to yourself while on the wall (99% of the tourists climbing around on the train won't even notice you up there, they'll be too busy driving everyone in the city crazy by ringing that dang bell on top of the train).

Marcus Russi · · New Haven, CT · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

I remember calling up the Wilderness Information Center in June since it sounded like some of the walls were closed in the wake of the fires. They told me they were going to reopen them once an evaluation or something had occurred, but they didn't know when that would happen. Any idea what the deal with that whole thing is?

Gavin W · · Surrey, BC · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 183
Ryan's Wall has been reopened as of July, except for a few routes on the far uphill end.
Mellow Yellow · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

5.7 eh? Dayum...I'm no stranger to offwidths -but understand that getting on something unknown can often ramp up the grades. Yeah, heel-toe placements, and a nice looking face climb just to the right of it sounds like the same place. The anchors (at the top of the corner) were two eye bolts? Please pass along a thank you to your buddy for putting it up!

Is there any published beta for that area -or do you care to share any?

And thanks for what you've shared already!

Gavin W · · Surrey, BC · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 183

Since I'm not developing the area myself, I don't want to share that info here, but shoot my a PM and I can give you some beta.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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