Black Diamond climbing ropes


Micah Klesick · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,894

I also bought one this week, and used it for two days of projecting at Smith this week. I bought a 9.6, 70 dry rope. It handled really well, extremely smooth both belaying and clipping. Weight felt good, and it had no coils or kinks pretty much straight out of the box. We used it on a variety of routes and projects, and whipped all over it, including multiple 20'+ foot whips, and one whip over the edge of a roof that I wasn't too excited about, but there was no damage to the rope at all. Catches felt soft, but not so soft that it made the fall feel longer (that being said, the falls were long anyway... it was Smith Rock after all).
My rope prior to this was a Maxim Glider 9.4, and the new BD rope handles much the same, and is a little less expensive if I remember right.
I'd totally recommend it after this trip.

ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 230

To bad for the rope I would want from them only comes in a color I don't really like. I would try out a 9.6 60/70m if they made it in blue or green.

My first rope was a blue water that I really liked, lasted for years and is still in near perfect condition minus a cut in sheath from getting stuck on a rappel. I replaced it with a sterling one that turned into a fuzz fest after a year of climbing, kinks like crazy, and likely won't get another from them.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,610

My workhorse 9.4 is a Roca purchased through fixe. A few hundred pitches into it, no fuzz, still good. I've taken a few whippers, including a 50 footer on it. It's first year it had a soft catch, it is now used mostly for projecting, but point is, when i need a new rope, it will be a BD 70, color be damned!
.$02

Micah Klesick · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,894
ViperScale wrote:To bad for the rope I would want from them only comes in a color I don't really like. I would try out a 9.6 60/70m if they made it in blue or green. My first rope was a blue water that I really liked, lasted for years and is still in near perfect condition minus a cut in sheath from getting stuck on a rappel. I replaced it with a sterling one that turned into a fuzz fest after a year of climbing, kinks like crazy, and likely won't get another from them.
It does come in green. My 9.6 70m dry rope is bright green.
shoo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 75
John Wilder wrote: The UIAA fall rating is essentially a waste of text on the rope- its not at all useful in any way at all for the consumer. Ignore it in favor of Sheath percentage, impact force, and weight.
Correct. It is more likely to be NEGATIVELY associated with "burliness" conditional on rope diameter. Higher % core increases UIAA fall rating, but reduces the amount of sheath (by definition), which means the rope can stand up to less abuse. In other words, if you were to have two ropes which were the same in every way (diameter, construction, materials, etc.), but one has a higher fall rating (achieved by decreasing sheath %), the one with the higher fall rating is likely to stand up to LESS abuse than the one with a lower fall rating.

I have said this many times, but I firmly believe that the UIAA fall rating should be removed from packaging, since it is far more misleading than helpful to consumers. Those that understand what it actually means ignore it, and those that don't understand will be mislead. It is worse for the consumer to have this there.
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,067
Micah Klesick wrote: It does come in green. My 9.6 70m dry rope is bright green.
yeah, but only the dry treated version. As lame as it sounds, I probably would have already purchased the 9.6 60m if the non-dry treated rope was the same green color as the dry version. The nasty mustard yellow on the 9.2 is enough for me to not buy it as well and I really don't care about dry treatment so it's not worth the extra money to me on either rope for the better color.
Patrick Shyvers · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 15
patto wrote:That said these are all the steps of milking a brand label for all the short term profit you can. Long term they are diluting the brand's reputation, it usually doesn't end well for the serious users of their products.
Their skis are made somewhere in Europe, their bindings are made by fritschi diamir, beacons by pieps, tent line bought from bibler, etc... So long as the product lines they chose to distribute or rebrand are good & fit with their other products, I think it's a win for everyone.
divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 170
Patrick Shyvers wrote: Their skis are made somewhere in Europe,
Their Helios line is made by Blizzard in Austria, not sure about the rest of the line.
freddie hutch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0

I got this BD 40M gym rope, and I've noticed an issue that I haven't seen in 30 years of climbing. By the time you lower the leader, the sheath on the rope is bunched up behind the atc while the core is stretched. It's almost like a sock pushed down over you ankles. And the sheath will stay all saggy for a while. There is also a weird kink in the rope. It's brand new and hs all of 8 hours of use. Should I be sad? Fear for my life? Thanks!

anotherclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 70
freddie hutch wrote:

I got this BD 40M gym rope, and I've noticed an issue that I haven't seen in 30 years of climbing. By the time you lower the leader, the sheath on the rope is bunched up behind the atc while the core is stretched. It's almost like a sock pushed down over you ankles. And the sheath will stay all saggy for a while. There is also a weird kink in the rope. It's brand new and hs all of 8 hours of use. Should I be sad? Fear for my life? Thanks!

I would contact Black Diamond about this. That's not normal. I'm sure they would be happy to replace it for you under warranty. 

Mark Berenblum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 105
freddie hutch wrote:

I got this BD 40M gym rope, and I've noticed an issue that I haven't seen in 30 years of climbing. By the time you lower the leader, the sheath on the rope is bunched up behind the atc while the core is stretched. It's almost like a sock pushed down over you ankles. And the sheath will stay all saggy for a while. There is also a weird kink in the rope. It's brand new and hs all of 8 hours of use. Should I be sad? Fear for my life? Thanks!

That's not just a quirk of a new design. That much sheath slippage ain't normal. Give 'em a call and tell their warranty folks what's happening.

Jason Eberhard · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 33

I've been using the 9.6 as my main rope for trad and sport for the last 6 months and really like it.  Seems to be holding up as well or better than my friends petzl nomad with similar use.

Josiah Ferguson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 15

Anyone have experience to share with the 7.8 half ropes? 

StuartB · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 35
Josiah Ferguson wrote:

Anyone have experience to share with the 7.8 half ropes? 

One of my climbing partners has a set of the 7.8 half ropes. I climbed a few pitches of ice with them. My initial impression was favorable. They handled well through an ATC and the coating did a good job of keeping them relatively dry. On one pitch they got quite icy (wet ice and -5 F temps) but almost all the ice came off when rapping and the ropes were barely wet when we pulled them out to dry at the hotel. 

They are pretty easy to get tangled up but that is to be expected with 140 m of skinny rope. They led to an entertaining less than vertical rap. 

jon jugenheimer · · Madison · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,049

StuartB, that pic looks like classic Nipigon!  

StuartB · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 35

Jon, Very good guess! I think you even know the guy in the picture;)

Ian Machen · · Reno, NV · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 35
Josiah Ferguson wrote:

Anyone have experience to share with the 7.8 half ropes? 

I've been using a set as twin/half rock ropes for about the past 10 months. My impression has been overall very favorable, besides the tangling issue when rappelling. I notified Black Diamond of how bad they were tangling (they had been named kinky and twisty), and sent them in for warranty. They sent me a new pair of ropes, and I haven't had the same issues since. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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