Interesting trio technique


Original Post
JFM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,828

Was reading a comment on one of the flatiron routes re: climbing with three people and the poster mentioned that (paraphrasing slightly)

";Climbing with three on the flatirons is tough because when you have to throw the end of the rope back down to the third climber, there are lots of places to get it stuck.";

My question: is this really a thing? Climbing multi with 3, using one rope, and leaving the 3rd person unroped at the lower belay and just throwing the end of the rope to them once the initial follower reaches the upper belay? Seems... Less than ideal.

MP, Please comment

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an... · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

the boundless optimism of youth?

Ryan Nevius · · Estes Park, Colorado · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 904

It's only a thing for people who have no idea what they're doing.

Kedron Silsbee · · Princeton, NJ · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

I've always tied a kite to the end of the rope and flown it down to the 3rd climber...careful though - it sucks getting on a route with a bunch of traverses, only to have the wind die on you. You'd probably want a drone then.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qIuUL91QN3s

I guess they're just "doing big things"

KennyJoe Sabine · · zOmBiE = from = OUTER-SPACE · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 230

You can use a 3mm cord or Para-cord. It should be possible to stack 200+ feet in a second chalk bag. Have the third climber wear the Para-cord chalk bag.
When the second climber goes have him or her tie the Para-cord to the rear of their harness. The third then can tend the slack accordingly while the second climbs. When the second reaches the anchor he can attach the climbing line to the Para-cord which feeds down to the third. As the third pulls/stacks the Para-cord back into the chalk bag he simultaneously will pull the climbing line back down to himself. It is a tedious task stacking a 3mm into a small bag but if you are quick about it, then it can be done. Or you can have the third wear a backpack and he could stack the Para-cord into that.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Ryan Nevius wrote:It's only a thing for people who have no idea what they're doing.
Good answer, Ryan.
Ball · · Oakridge, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 70

The proper way is to tandem climb by clipping your belay loop to your partner's haul loop. This makes rapping easier and is bro-tastic (as is everything for colo-rad-ans)

KennyJoe Sabine · · zOmBiE = from = OUTER-SPACE · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 230
Ball wrote:The proper way is to tandem climb by clipping your belay loop to your partner's haul loop. This makes rapping easier and is bro-tastic (as is everything for colo-rad-ans)
That's F'en stupid.
Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
KennyJoe wrote: That's F'en stupid.
What? That f-en funny :)

Sounds like just another idea people that don't have doubles try when they need to make it happen. Kinda using a two singles except this sounds sketchy.
Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 83

That is some pure gold right there. I bet it is really hard on a traversing pitch.

Dan Provasnik · · DeSoto, Missouri · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 125
KennyJoe wrote:You can use a 3mm cord or Para-cord. It should be possible to stack 200+ feet in a second chalk bag. Have the third climber wear the Para-cord chalk bag. When the second climber goes have him or her tie the Para-cord to the rear of their harness. The third then can tend the slack accordingly while the second climbs. When the second reaches the anchor he can attach the climbing line to the Para-cord which feeds down to the third. As the third pulls/stacks the Para-cord back into the chalk bag he simultaneously will pull the climbing line back down to himself. It is a tedious task stacking a 3mm into a small bag but if you are quick about it, then it can be done. Or you can have the third wear a backpack and he could stack the Para-cord into that.
Just curious, the second would then clean the route on the way up then and the third would basically TR up?

I'm imagine it could be problematic trying to pull the rope back down through the biners. I know this sounds stupid but there's not much opportunity for multipitch climbing here in Missouri.
Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Parker Wrozek wrote:That is some pure gold right there. I bet it is really hard on a traversing pitch.
That's what the grappling hook's for. Duh!
KennyJoe Sabine · · zOmBiE = from = OUTER-SPACE · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 230
Dan Provasnik wrote: Just curious, the second would then clean the route on the way up then and the third would basically TR up? I'm imagine it could be problematic trying to pull the rope back down through the biners. I know this sounds stupid but there's not much opportunity for multipitch climbing here in Missouri.
How in the HELL is the second going to climb up without unclipping the rope?
goingUp · · over here · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 40

The paracord method only works if the third person is wearing running shoes, or chacos.
To do this properly, you also need a pulley to run the paracord through and the first two climbers need to completely untie.

Its how science works.

KennyJoe Sabine · · zOmBiE = from = OUTER-SPACE · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 230

We here at MP are having a who's the stupidest climber competition.

Phil Lauffen · · The Bubble · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 2,215

It actually doesn't seem to be much of a competition.

Dan Provasnik · · DeSoto, Missouri · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 125
KennyJoe wrote: How in the HELL is the second going to climb up without unclipping the rope?
I guess I should have spent more time explaining my thought process. On a route where there is a long traverse the follower esentually needs the quickdraws/protection to keep them from taking a large pendulum. Or with a seriously overhung route to get back on route in the event of a fall.

I would think as the second moves up the route they would either A: Clip the parachord into the protection and unclip the rope on the way up. B:Just clean the route and the third would not be given that same level of protection.
Parker Wrozek · · Denver, CO · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 83
Dan Provasnik wrote: Just curious, the second would then clean the route on the way up then and the third would basically TR up? I'm imagine it could be problematic trying to pull the rope back down through the biners. I know this sounds stupid but there's not much opportunity for multipitch climbing here in Missouri.
Your life will be much better if you just forgot that this idea was mentioned. Just use 2 ropes or break the pitches into 1/2 your rope length and tie the 3rd into the middle on a bight.

You would have to unclip and take the gear which can be a big issue for protecting the 3rd in this paracord method. Probably just don't do it.
goingUp · · over here · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 40

Dan, that wouldn't really work. The knot between the paracord and the rope would make that a nightmare to pull through gear back to the bottom where the third party is waiting.
This is not a 'technique' I would ever employ as there are far better options..
Twin ropes, doubles or butterfly the second into the middle of the rope. or flat out trail a second rope.
Plus, the flatirons are flat and low angled and more often than anything else free soloed.

Dan Provasnik · · DeSoto, Missouri · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 125
goingUp wrote:Dan, that wouldn't really work. The knot between the paracord and the rope would make that a nightmare to pull through gear back to the bottom where the third party is waiting. This is not a 'technique' I would ever employ as there are far better options.. Twin ropes, doubles or butterfly the second into the middle of the rope. or flat out trail a second rope. Plus, the flatirons are flat and low angled and more often than anything else free soloed.
I kind of figured as much about the rope getting caught in the biners. I was just wondering if there was some jedi rock climbing trick I wasn't aware of for pulling the rope back down through the biners. Aside from the chinese finger trap method.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply