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Original Post
m kelley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

I thought there was a sliding X in a top rope system someone posted but after zooming in a lot, it looks like it was two seperate bights of rope. My mistake. Thanks to the people that offered good answers.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

That's fine. The angle is so low that there is no problemo. I have spoken. :)

Jonathan Awerbuch · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 38

^that was my thought too.

BUT, it looks like a simple figure eight on a bight or a BFK would work better here, and then you wouldn't even have to wonder about triaxial loading.

Philip Magistro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

There is some measure of triaxial loading in your setup. I wouldn't worry about it, though, because even with a higher angle you probably can't create the kind of forces that would break those carabiners in any real-life climbing scenario.

That said, you could use a BHK (pull both strands down, double back a bight, and tie an overhand or figure-8 on a bight on all four strands) to eliminate the issue and possibly achieve easier equalization.

Cairn Kiler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 125

There is no reason to set up the anchor like you did in your first image or in your drawing.

In the first image, you could easily tie a figure eight knot on both cords to eliminate the triloading effect.

And in your bottom image, why would you do that? Run the rope through the locker like that? If either anchor failed, the whole system would fail. Same as with the top image, tie a figure eight or overhand in the anchor to eliminate the triloading effect.

John Rogers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 20

I hope this will help you out:
Caribineer load

jdereks · · Minnesota · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 70

Unrelated - what's going on at the anchor on the left? You've backed up an 8 with a clove? Keep it simple: 8 on one anchor, clove on the other.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 650

I refuse to play by your rules. Why would you make an anchor like this in the first place?

Alexander Stathis · · Athens, GA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 25
m kelley wrote: The gym climbers at reddit said triloading was a problem here.
There's no reason for the condescension. There are quite a few climbers who read both Reddit and Mountain Project forums rather regularly, and I actually find a lot of comments from a few individuals on Reddit very enlightening.

P.S. Your anchor is needlessly complicated. Everyone on Reddit was telling you that too. Why don't you try listening and responding to the real criticism?
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 871

It seems most people are ignoring your actual question and focusing on your cord, which if fine btw.

In the original post those biners are not triaxial loaded. Notice the spine of each biner in line with the direction of pull. Good to go!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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