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First solo route on the captain?


Original Post
Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30

Hello lovelies!

I'm an intermediate wall climber.... I've climbed Lurking Fear and Zodiac on the captain.

I'm looking for my first solo route on the captain. My solo experience isn't that deep.... Only done Prodigal Son IAD solo....

I'm looking for something secluded, without a ton of nasty hauling. I'm also looking at the SE face because it will be early October (less sun)

My two current ideas are Octopussy or Never Never land.

Any ideas?

Barrett Pauer · · Brevard, NC · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 775

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/72849/Wings-of-Steel

Kauait · · Sandy Utah · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

T trip.

Kauait · · Sandy Utah · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

P.O Wall

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350
Sam Keller wrote:I'm looking for something secluded, without a ton of nasty hauling. I'm also looking at the SE face because it will be early October (less sun) My two current ideas are Octopussy or Never Never land. Any ideas?
OK, so both of those routes are on the West face of El Cap. But saying you want less sun would mean you want to be on the East face. So which is it?

For West Face:
Believe it or not Muir Wall (for as historic and popular as it should be) does not normally have many parties on it.

For East Face:
Mescalito will be good but more likely to have other parties
(Stay away from anything that travels through the dark rock is heat is a concern)
Virginia to Tangerine Trip is a great start with a super easy finish when you're exhausted and tired and realizing that what you thought you'd get done in a day is just not happening and then all of the sudden! Hooray! rivet highway! full disclosure, never climbed it myself, just going off reports of friends I who have.)
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Barrett Pauer wrote:http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/72849/Wings-of-Steel
That was certainly useful.
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

Zenyatta Mondatta, Lost in America or Shortest Straw all all good routes.

BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

you should try "wings of steel"

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350
BigB wrote:you should try "wings of steel"
would have been funny but you came a bit late to the party

Barrett Pauer wrote:http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/72849/Wings-of-Steel
BigB · · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 340

^Story of my life....
day late and a dollar short

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
BigB wrote:^Story of my life.... day late and a dollar short
You could break down and actually read the posts in the thread before replying!
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

We should be able to "Like" a post!

Kauait · · Sandy Utah · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

+1

Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30
Barrett Pauer wrote:http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/72849/Wings-of-Steel
Great IDEA! Thank you! It's good to know that I can count on the good people of MP to offer sound and sage advice!
Sam Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 30
kevin deweese wrote: OK, so both of those routes are on the West face of El Cap. But saying you want less sun would mean you want to be on the East face. So which is it? For West Face: Believe it or not Muir Wall (for as historic and popular as it should be) does not normally have many parties on it. For East Face: Mescalito will be good but more likely to have other parties (Stay away from anything that travels through the dark rock is heat is a concern) Virginia to Tangerine Trip is a great start with a super easy finish when you're exhausted and tired and realizing that what you thought you'd get done in a day is just not happening and then all of the sudden! Hooray! rivet highway! full disclosure, never climbed it myself, just going off reports of friends I who have.)
I had a friend do Muir wall and he said the hauling sucks.

I like the idea of T.Trip. Thanks for the advice.
Barrett Pauer · · Brevard, NC · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 775

Anytime ;)

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350

For what it's worth, attaching a thin tag line to the bottom of your haul bag and doing a mini haul with the tag line if the top of the bag gets caught on something will solve a lot of your usual solo hauling horror stories.

Only problem is that it takes a reduculous amount of rope management and so isn't worth it unless you're hauling a pitch you KNOW the bag will get stuck on

Unless you were talking about the difficulty of hauling low angle in which case, 2:1 hauling ratchet is fine but certainly not comfortable

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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