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Your worst angle for climbing


Original Post
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Hey everyone,

So I've been thinking a lot about relative difficulty and analyzing what gradients I tend to do well on and what my weaknesses are, and I was wondering how my experiences compared to others. I've noticed that, for me, the hardest routes for the grade are almost always in that Goldilocks zone referred to as "gently overhanging." This angle is anything but gentle for me, and tends to spit me off the most. Severely overhanging routes are usually ok because the holds are mostly huge or positive, and gentle slabs or vertical routes are fine because you can usually get good feet, but in that just past vertical but under 45 range, I find you often get holds that are good but not great and just enough overhang to make them pumpy and sustained, which for me is a worst nightmare. What is yours?

Justin Barrett · · Russellville, AR · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 85

Any route that the beta calls for big moves, i.e. dynos. I'm all for minor dynamic moves, but when the only possible way to move up is to just go for it, nuh uh. I like to be in control the whole time climbing.

I'll quit a route if I find out that I just have to lunge for an okay hold and I can't smear or something my way up.

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 483

The "steep slab" to "thin face" in the low 11 range, I'd guess that's 75-85 degrees. A combination of "smedging" and edging on larger crystals comes in; hands could be crimping a credit card, palming the slightest bulge, etc..

Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440

For me this range is in the slab to vertical zone. One moment I'm working my way up the wall, not pumped out or in trouble at all, then before I know it, I'm spit off.

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 80

the angle at which i am least attractive to the opposite sex.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 105

My least favorite angle is the drilled angle. You don't know its history, or anything like that.

cyclestupor · · Woodland Park, Colorado · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 93
Pnelson wrote:My least favorite angle is the drilled angle. You don't know its history, or anything like that.
Is a "drilled angle" the same as a drilled Piton?
Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449
ViperScale · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 235

Steps... I have like 1 leg that is about 2 inches longer than the other from injuries growing up and walking up stairs for me is alot worst than climbing a 5.7 straight vertical.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Haha, wow...that's a unique one. Interesting that there is a lot of variety in what gives people trouble.

Its Isaac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

For me its roof climbing. 6'4 with long as f**k legs. Don't have near enough core strength to hold my feet up, crossover etc without cutting them loose every move regardless of how juggy. I probably boulder 3 or 4 grades lower on a roof than anything else. Gently overhanging is definitely my favorite

Yeitti · · Colorado or sometimes LA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 30

dead verticle its harder than steeper for me.

hey, anyone want to go scuba diving soon?

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

anything more than gentle overhang. I love steep slab, though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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