Top Rope Self Belay, Clove Hitch a single rope?


Original Post
Tim Lau · · Hendersonville, NC · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 20

My google-fu has not resulted in an answer to this specific question...

PPetzle recommends this setup for self belay

In that instruction, they say:

GEAR NECESSARY FOR THE SELF-BELAY SYSTEM:
- two EN 892 dynamic single ropes or two EN 1891 semi-static ropes of 10 mm minimum diameter


Is there any reason NOT to simply Clove Hitch a single dynamic climbing rope to the TR anchors?

Tim Lau · · Hendersonville, NC · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 20

Correction....a COUPLE clove hitches on a couple anchor points....

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

I doubled my rope and tied a BHK and clipped it to the master point - two redundant strands, device on each strand.

I tried w/ the ascender on the bottom last week and wasn't a fan. Wild Country Ropeman girthed through tie-in and clipped to sling at chest level (rope 1) and Grigri on belay loop (rope 2).

Tim Lau · · Hendersonville, NC · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 20
Michael C wrote:I doubled my rope and tied a BHK and clipped it to the master point - two redundant strands, device on each strand. I tried w/ the ascender on the bottom last week and wasn't a fan. Wild Country Ropeman girthed through tie-in and clipped to sling at chest level (rope 1) and Grigri on belay loop (rope 2).
That makes a lot more sense than clove hitches.

I already have the GriGri, so I'll take a look at the Ropeman, thanks!
keithconn · · LI, NY · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 35

They don't mean two ropes. They mean that you need two pieces of rope hanging down. I use two fig8's on a bite attached to anchor. Everything redundant.

Dan Provasnik · · DeSoto, Missouri · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 125

I have two methods I use. ATC GUIDE with dynamic rope run through the chains then I manually tend the slack at every anchor point I would clip a draw at. Then the other with with static rope I use a camp lift. I should backup and I'm sure I'll pay for it eventually.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtPBLh6xyvg

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 509

One rope in half with fig8 with bunny ears locked to the masterpoint. OR clove hitches on 2+ bolts.

Grigri and Kong duck ascender.

Duck line is weighted to autofeed. Grigri line is pulled manually.

Rap on one line with Grigri.

Eric M Parks · · Campo, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 165

for TOP ROPE self belay:

Bunny ears at the anchor. Single rope. GriGri for rappelling down. Two ascenders (one chest and one belay loop)on a single rope for the climb. Rappel down to next set of anchors and repeat.

Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,470

Interesting that they are suggesting using two ropes and ascenders now for toprope soloing. What's wrong with both ascenders on a single rope? Looks like I'm going to be doing more of this soon in developing routes solo.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Stich wrote:Interesting that they are suggesting using two ropes and ascenders now for toprope soloing. What's wrong with both ascenders on a single rope? Looks like I'm going to be doing more of this soon in developing routes solo.
If one rope gets cut, you are saved by the ascender on the other rope/strand.
Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,470
FrankPS wrote: If one rope gets cut, you are saved by the ascender on the other rope/strand.
Not a bad idea if you are climbing uncleaned choss to check it out.
Dan Provasnik · · DeSoto, Missouri · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 125

Certain types of ascenders like the Paddle type capture devices if loaded on an already taut line have been known to sever the line when loaded. So you should have the second device on another line or use a quicklink on your belay loop and tie backup knots every five feet or so.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 871

^^^So if you have one rope and you tie backup knots and your rope is severed will the backup knots save you????

Hello!

Dan Provasnik · · DeSoto, Missouri · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 125
Greg D wrote:^^^So if you have one rope and you tie backup knots and your rope is severed will the backup knots save you???? Hello!
The quicklink is there to catch you if the device you're using "Blows Up". It's going to hurt like hell and you're going to most likely get injured a bit when you hit the stopper knot but you'll live. This is an imperfect system yes but one that will work if your device itself fails. If you're worried about your rope getting severed it's most likely a line you shouldn't be climbing TR Solo in the first place. How ever if the rope becoming severed is at issue for the particular line you're climbing you can run the quicklink on the second line and tie your backup nots in that(second line should be dynamic).

This might help
http://www.supertopo.com/a/How-to-Set-Up-a-Self-Belay-for-a-Solo-Toprope/a11526n.html
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 871

I wasn't looking for instruction. Backup knots don't help when your rope is severed. A second line does.

. · · Asheville NC · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 485

will the back up knots save you if the second line breaks too?

If I am reading this correctly YER GONNA DIE if you TR solo

Dan Provasnik · · DeSoto, Missouri · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 125
Dan Provasnik wrote:So you should have the second device on another line or use a quicklink on your belay loop and tie backup knots every five feet or so.
I'm glad you have great reading comp skills bro.
Dan Provasnik · · DeSoto, Missouri · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 125
Kyle Cobbler wrote:will the back up knots save you if the second line breaks too? If I am reading this correctly YER GONNA DIE if you TR solo
LOL
. · · Asheville NC · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 485

what is so different between TR solo and regular old TR that requires the need for 2 ropes?
either way you should not route your rope such that it may get sliced and diced

Dan Provasnik · · DeSoto, Missouri · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 125
Kyle Cobbler wrote:what is so different between TR solo and regular old TR that requires the need for 2 ropes? either way you should not route your rope such that it may get sliced and diced
When you're "Regular old TR"ing the thought is that the rope is not rubbing in the same spot over and over again. Since as the climber progresses up the route you are pulling in the slack.

With TR Solo your rope is fixed in possition and if you pendulum when you fall the rope will rub the same spot over and over again. Unless of course you are using something approximating the double rope technique that arborist use.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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