Where to go for ice/mixed in the Fall?


Original Post
grubbers · · Mass. · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

Anyone have any recommendations for places to find some early season ice/mixed climbs in the lower 48? I was thinking that RMNP could be a good bet, but I'm open to other suggestions. I'm thinking about taking a trip in late October/early November.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

The Black Dike on Cannon cliff in Franconia Notch NH sees early season mixed ascents as early as Halloween. I don't know if it's worth planning a trip to but..

grubbers · · Mass. · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

I live less than 2 hours away from Cannon and I'm looking for a place where there's a higher chance that more than just one route will be in.

Dharma Bum · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 585

Probably have a better chance in Cody or Hyalite. Even better chance in the Canadian Rockies although technically not the "lower 48".

grubbers · · Mass. · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

Flights from Boston to Denver can be found for less than $200 round trip right now so I booked my trip. I'll figure out something to do while I'm out there if the alpine routes aren't in.

Arthur Eng · · DE · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 5

I'd be interested to climb in Colorado early season? Looking at November 4th-November 7th or 8th. I'd be coming from Philly.

Mt. Evans/Mt. of the Holy Cross/Pyramid Peak/Cathedral Peak

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,129

Wyoming and Montana.

Nick Votto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

Earliest ice outside of the Rockies is usually Mt Washington. This was the other day:

Washington

Nick Votto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

I'm in Denver in October for a bit if you wanted to try and get out

Nate K · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 220

are you in burlington? here are some ideas for you

Montana- Lots of stuff in the beartooths will be in starting early-mid november but its scary early season conditions. not worth flying out for really. Hyalite starts coming in really good about a week before thanksgiving on a normal year.

Colorado: RMNP will be climbable, beyond that i dont know.

Wyoming- some stuff in cody will be in but the trend has been towards the season starting a bit later than in montana.

Canadian Rockies- Big rigs are getting done right now. Things will get unstable real soon once the snowpack gets deeper and is still relatively shallow and new.

another option would be to drive way up north and go look at northern quebec ice. there is some huge stuff up there, i have no idea when it comes in but im sure somebody on here has the beta. Honestly NH is your best bet if youre already in the east. Katadhin will have ice in a couple weeks too

kevino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0

What are people using these days for updates on canadian alpine conditions?

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,129

Kevino, people are using a weather forecast. That is a joke, not an insult. Start spending time on google researching and Facebook and Instagram and gripped.com ect and the the Article Worton wrote a few years back and you will get it.

To go to Canada to attempt the big stuff you either have to be really good, really bold or have the time to put in trip after trip after trip all seasons of the year.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

What about Gravisports.com? That board had a few conditions reports throughout the season.

The problem for me at least is you plan the trip so far ahead of time. You arrive and stuff's either in or out... Or avalanche rating's high.. Or it's -20C.

jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,129

And will's site, yes. Forgot about that one. And the MCR reports help as well.

Agree, all us Yankees coming from the south. It's super hard to get up stuff not being a local or a sponsored climbers.

kevino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 0

I guess to clarify my question, I was seeing if there an equivalent to grav-sports forum, which has decreased in usage over the years. I have stared watching the MCR web page, but nothing has been posted this fall thus far. But thanks for the insight and information.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
kevino wrote:I guess to clarify my question, I was seeing if there an equivalent to grav-sports forum, which has decreased in usage over the years. I have stared watching the MCR web page, but nothing has been posted this fall thus far. But thanks for the insight and information.
I just thought If you drop Mike Barter an email or PM him on here he would tell what's up. maybe even get a PO grade on things! Haha
grubbers · · Mass. · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0

Looks like Colorado will be too warm when I'm out there. Any place within a 10 hour drive that might be worth it? The Tetons, maybe?

Dharma Bum · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 585

Cody

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 650

Canmore/Canadian Rockies is the place to go for early season ice. In a couple of weeks, stuff on the Icefields Parkway will be in.

Edit: Just noticed that you were looking for lower 48. Sorry!

grubbers · · Mass. · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 0
Kevin Zagorda wrote:Cody
I think that's going to be the spot. I'll just point it north once I get my rental car.
Steven Kovalenko · · Calgary · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

Expect lots of walking for ice at the moment in the Canadian Rockies. A somewhat snowy, warm start to the season. No low elevation rigs are in, and the early snow basically erased our alpine season aside from some short windows, but some climbs got done or were attempted (Kitchener GCC, Andromeda Strain).

Wait a couple of weeks for the convenient ice, or just go for a slog.

People are getting lazy and the locals are posting their conditions updates as "Status Reports" on Facebook nowadays, instead of taking 10min to bang out a forum post. The Gravsports-Ice forum is too inconvenient and outdated, I guess. It's also pretty early here still for a lot of reports, based on the conditions.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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