Anchor - on a scale of truck to YGD...

Michael Schneider wrote: Also- always tie a knot below your belay device after your climber is ten feet up. So that the rope won't slip through the device, dropping the climber.

It will also limit the leader to climbing extremely short pitches.

I'm a straight from the AMGA textbook, over-built is good, sticking to tried and true practices kind of climber.

It's weird. I've seen a lot of weird that holds and works though.

But if it were me, I'd say "let's try something else".

Tell his cheap ass to buy a few more lockers and some more cord, and then build it right.

chris magness wrote:Biggest point of concern is a single locker on the new master point. Should that gate open, you'd have a catastrophic failure. Two opposed lockers is the standard for a TR.

I see people top roping all the time with one locker so I am not sure how standard 2 is. Personally, I use 1 locker with a double action gate. Safety rigging places sell them in steel as well.

People whip onto a single unlocked biner on a single bolt everyday and don't think twice about it. Why the huge concern over top roping or lowering off a single locker on a single strand? Why would it fail? Whats part might you think fail?

I understand the purpose of redundancy and for top roping if you have a bunch of gear thats great. I guess the thing that bothers me is I have climbed with a lot of different climbers over the years and it seems almost all have slightly different ways of doing things especially new climbers who see a new way of doing something every month in the latest climbing mag and it becomes the gold standard until the next issue comes out. Yes two miners are better than one, two bolts are better than one but why would one liner all of a sudden fail? sure it could but you have a better chance of being struck by lightening. The one area where I see this preoccupation with redundancy extreme safety can become dangerous is long climbs in the mountains where speed is safety, not every belay has to have three pieces, sometimes a hip belay is just fine. An extra 5-10 minutes at each belay starts adding up and can be the difference between making it back to the car for a cold one or being a cold one stuck on the wall. Learn the basics, stick with what works, don't change your systems every month with the latest fad, don't over think it and be safe.

Matt Westlake wrote:There are no rap hangers it's fixed gear with a steel ring master and most folks either clip the ring or the cables. I am well aware of many more standard alternatives and have equipment for my own setups. This is just a question of whether you would trust this setup or give your leader grief when you found out this is what you were about to lower from or have a TR party on.

If that's all you had I'd rap on it in an emergency. All day long. But it's a stupid setup otherwise for the other 99.5% of the things climbers do and I'd question the sanity of someone who purposely and repeatedly utilized such a thing. Jingus.

Where's Bearbreader? COME BACK OLD FRIEND WE NEED YOUR DIAGRAMS, TESTS AND ARROWS EXPLAINING THAT A NON REDUNDANT 7MM CORD IS ALREADY WEAK, USED 7MM CORD MORE SO AND USED 7MM CORD WITH KNOTS IN IT EVEN MORE SO AND THEN RUN IT OVER SOME SHARP ROCK AND LET IT SWING AROUND UNDER LOAD ON THOSE SAME ROUGH OR SHARP ROCKS WHILE TOPROPING? Sweet Jesus.

No more arrows and charts are needed from my personal perspective, it sucks and is stupid. Send your partner to this thread then to the "Bearbreader school of technical love™™™™™™".

Billcoe wrote: If that's all you had I'd rap on it in an emergency. All day long. But it's a stupid setup otherwise for the other 99.5% of the things climbers do and I'd question the sanity of someone who purposely and repeatedly utilized such a thing. Jingus. Where's Bearbreader? COME BACK OLD FRIEND WE NEED YOUR DIAGRAMS, TESTS AND ARROWS EXPLAINING THAT A NON REDUNDANT 7MM CORD IS ALREADY WEAK, USED 7MM CORD MORE SO AND USED 7MM CORD WITH KNOTS IN IT EVEN MORE SO AND THEN RUN IT OVER SOME SHARP ROCK AND LET IT SWING AROUND UNDER LOAD ON THOSE SAME ROUGH OR SHARP ROCKS WHILE TOPROPING? Sweet Jesus. No more arrows and charts are needed from my personal perspective, it sucks and is stupid. Send your partner to this thread then to the "Bearbreader school of technical love™™™™™™".

To Chortelle is to laugh
a Gwaphaw or Gaphaw, is to swallow a full laugh,
u had to ask for 'da Baar' ?
That made me Chuckle,
Gaphaw Gaphaw,
this doesn't need a a lot more hashing over.

Well said direct and clear.

The OP stated that his dubiously un-informed partner uses this as a constant!

Edit :

jktinst wrote:I see. I interpreted this to mean a rope-stretcher of a next pitch when it really was a rope-stretcher of a TR. Then, all the more reason to use extra cordage, knots & biners to give it all the solidity and redundancy required of a TR anchor, as everyone has pointed out.

, ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ , , Yup'.m B-/TopRope Tuff Guy ! ? NTTAWWT 8^I'

(I called troll, page up. . But if this is more clear. . "T", also really, it's ok that ya missed that ! it was Cryptic beyond comprehension given the OP's use of a device, not a Belay Device. The tried and true -"my friend's boy friend took us climbing and now we want go climbing without him, just top roping, is this safe? My friend, she says says this is what they always do it?"- Is another example of the type of device I'm referring to.

I see. I interpreted this

Matt Westlake wrote:...The distance is such that a 60m barely makes it...

to mean a rope-stretcher of a next pitch when it really was a rope-stretcher of a TR.

Then, all the more reason to use extra cordage, knots & biners to give it all the solidity and redundancy required of a TR anchor, as everyone has pointed out.