Sports routes in Adirondacks


Original Post
mariemauve · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Hello!

Does anyone nkows some easy sports routes in the ADK? Around Keene or elsewhere... Thank you :)

Marie

MaxSuffering · · KVNY · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 0

I guess the first question is what are you defining as "easy?" I've heard sport climbers (mistakenly) refer to anything below 5.12 as "easy." Assuming you mean sub-5.10 there's really not much that's fully and safely bolted around the greater Keene region.

What comes to mind:

5.7 and under: Nothing... anybody want to chime in?

5.8: Bee Hold and WMP at Spanky's Wall. Silent Flight, Santa Claus Hill.

5.9: Bond Girls and Shaken Not Stirred at the Martini Wall. (Slightly involved approach.)

5.10: Chronic Fixation, King Wall. P1 Weekend Warrior, Washbowl. Wandering Lunatic, Beer Walls. Honeybadger and p1 Where The Wild Things Are at Potter Mt. Menace To Sobriety, Poke-O. Several good routes at Beaver Brook Cliff.

Farther from Keene, Crane Mt. has plenty of >5.10 bolted routes but I'll let someone else come up with a list of which ones are truly sport. Same goes for Shelving Rock and the other Lake George areas.

ClimbLikeAGirl · · Keene Valley · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

MaxSuffering hit the bulk of 'em in the KV region but I'll add Pilgrim's Progress and Home Rule at easi .10s at Poke-O.

Snowy Mountain is a full-on approach but is well worth the trek with at least 5 good quality routes that are all bolted (I say at least because there has been some new routing there & I'm not sure what else has popped up).

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,366

In the back of the ADK Rock guide there's a list of 'areas with sport routes'. Of those not already mentioned, Silver Lake is less than an hour's drive from Keene. There's also new routes that have been put up since the publishing of the guide:

http://adirondackrock.com/newroutes.htm#Silver_Lake:_Center_of_Progress

Note that the Mountain Project page is incomplete for this cliff, there's a lot more in the ADK Rock guide:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/silver-lake/107667101

Most of the sport at Silver Lake is 5.10-ish or harder. One 5.6 at the right end of Mud Pond cliff, and a few new sport routes in the link above (new routes list).

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 40

The lower and upper Measles Wall, Crane Mountain. 5.0-5.1 and 5.6-5.8

Ryan Spooner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Shanty Cliff has several sport routes in the 5.7-5.10 range.
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/shanty-cliff/106874789

Snowy Mountain has around a half dozen sport routes in the 5.7-5.9 range, as well as a classic 5.10, although you need one 4" or 5" cam to protect the start of the 5.10. Snowy is great, but the approach is pretty strenuous. It's damn close to being a 46er, and the cliffs are near the summit. The exposure and views from the crag are spectacular, and it's definitely worth the hike. It's probably not as beginner friendly as Shanty, though. mountainproject.com/v/snowy...

Both of these areas are in the southern end of the park. Shanty is in the Southern Dacks, by Adirondack Rock's reckoning, and Snowy is near Indian Lake. They are both worth the trip from Keene if you're looking for easier sport routes

ScottL · · Albany · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

snowy mountain is really good.

i wouldn't recommend the measles walls.

silver lake is spectacular but a bit more difficult and committing.

I'd recommend the ark wall and neanderthal cave at shelving rock in lake george. particularly the ark wall has a good selection of sport climbs from 5.5-5.10 with a strong concentration in the 5.7-5.9 range. approach is about 15-20 mins. lots of newish rock so you may want a helmet.

Kevin Heckeler · · Upstate New York · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,366
ScottL wrote:I'd recommend the ark wall and neanderthal cave at shelving rock in lake george. particularly the ark wall has a good selection of sport climbs from 5.5-5.10 with a strong concentration in the 5.7-5.9 range. approach is about 15-20 mins. lots of newish rock so you may want a helmet.
+1 on the Ark wall, best selection of moderate sport in the park. Plus you'll be within walking distance of the main Shelving Rock cliffs with even more options. Unfortunately, it's a bit of a haul from Keene (90 minute drive?).

+2 on wearing a helmet there. A VERY experienced climber had a softball sized chunk of rock break off from under their feet when I was last there. Luckily no one happened to be directly below, but very well could have been. All of Shelving Rock is helmet territory, unless you like the extra gnar.
Jim Lawyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 3,005

There are sport routes here:

Ark Wall
Beaver Brook
Beer Walls
The Brain
Charcoal Kiln Quarry
Measles Walls
Eagle Falls
Good Luck Mountain
South Face of Gothics
Green Lake
The Honey Pot
The Crown
The Crime Scene
Huckleberry
King Wall
Little Crow Mountain
Little Johnson
Lost Hunters
Makomis Mountain
Martini Wall
McMartin Cliff
New Buck
Otter Lake
Poke-O
Potash
Roger's Rock
Santa Claus Hill
Shanty Cliff
Shelving Rock
Silver Lake
Snowy Mountain
Spanky's Wall
Stewarts Ledge
Typhoon Wall
Wild Pines
Steve Austin
Slanting Cracks Wall
Sugarloaf
Cedar River Crag
Devil's Washdish
Future Wall
Statebrook
Polar Soldier Wall
Upper Washbowl
Ragged Mountain

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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