Mountain Project Logo

Can get any shoe for bulk price: What would you get?


Original Post
Evan Chrisinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

I've got a homie who is closely associated to shoe makers due to his position in the climbing industry. He's extended the offer to get me a pair of shoes for very cheap (bulk price).

I already have a pair of La Sportiva Tarantulance's that fit well enough for the gym when I'm taking it easy (too loose for me to climb hard or high outdoors with unroped, though). I'm looking for a velcro shoe I can get a little tighter to really work on hard climbs with. I was thinking the 5.10 Arrowhead (tried it and liked it), or pretty much whichever 5.10 aggressively downturned shoe fits me most comfortably. Should shoes this aggro be uncomfortably tight? Or can I just go with normal climbing tight?

Things I'm looking for:

Non-stretch/synthetic
Velcro
This would be used for mostly bouldering. What would you get?

Thanks!!

Michael Holland · · Teton Village, WY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

get the sportiva miura vs. (if they fit your heel right.)

Evan Chrisinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0
Michael Holland wrote:get the sportiva miura vs. (if they fit your heel right.)
Are Miura VS as reputable? Or would you go with Miura because there's a noticeable difference?
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Miura VS are the Toyota Camry of the climbing world. Everyone has them.

Haven't climbed in Arrowheads before, but from my understanding, they are more of a comfortable all arounder, as they are relatively flat lasted. They'll definitely do and will be a substantial upgrade from your turantulaces, but if you're going for an aggressive bouldering shoe, you might be better off with a Five Ten Team or Blackwing (if you're set on 5.10) or La Sportiva Solution/Genius/Futura, Scarpa Instinct, Evolv Shaman. That said, if this is your first aggressive shoe, you might be better off with a middle of the road option, at which point the Arrowhead would be a good choice, or you might check out the Anasazi VS if you're set on 5.10 (nothing wrong with that!). Based on your post, I would say that is probably a better option, as most downturned aggressive shoes are indeed uncomfortable and going straight there from turantulaces is a big leap.

Edit: don't listen to me, I was wrong about the Arrowheads lol. I think I had them confused with Stonelands.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,465

Asking other people what climbing shoe to get is like asking people what they like in an intimate partner, then seeking that thinking it'll work for you. If I had an offer extended like that to me, I spend the next few days at gear shops trying on every type of shoe I could and figuring out what was perfect for me. Find something that fits your foot. Everyone's feet are different. What works for someone else may not work for you. As a matter of fact it's almost guaranteed it won't.

Climb Germany · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 2,525

Tenaya Oasi meets those requirements.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Jake Jones wrote:Asking other people what climbing shoe to get is like asking people what they like in an intimate partner, then seeking that thinking it'll work for you. If I had an offer extended like that to me, I spend the next few days at gear shops trying on every type of shoe I could and figuring out what was perfect for me. Find something that fits your foot. Everyone's feet are different. What works for someone else may not work for you. As a matter of fact it's almost guaranteed it won't.
+1 Take this advice.
Michael Holland · · Teton Village, WY · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 5

^ Truth!!

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205

Arrow heads are utter shite cant say one good thing about them, the rubber is crap, the heels crap, they are soft, uncomfortable and cant edge for shit. Get the miura vs. Get them really really tight at first, break them in and they will become the perfect high performance shoe.

drewp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 125

Admittedly a dyno, but anasazi arrowhead (singular) used on the send. I hear they are like old quantums and those rule so...

https://vimeo.com/112839073

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Yeah...I can't believe Seb is complaining about 5.10 rubber and then recommending La Sportiva shoes. I've come to realize that XS Edge is the worst rubber on the market.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205
Ted Pinson wrote:Yeah...I can't believe Seb is complaining about 5.10 rubber and then recommending La Sportiva shoes. I've come to realize that XS Edge is the worst rubber on the market.
Yopu clearly havn't climbed on boreal's rubber. But seriously onyxx is crap never lets me stand on an edge my TC pro's and their xs edge on the other hand are fantastic.
Andrewww · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 620

Arrowheads are the velcro version of the old purple Quantums, the new blue Quantums share nothing with the old ones. I love my Quantums, they are not flat lasted at all, and neither are the arrowheads. they are a super soft, super sensitive, down turned shoe. Onyxx is one of the best rubbers available, ask Locker. The heel is great for heel hooking.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190
that guy named seb wrote: Yopu clearly havn't climbed on boreal's rubber. But seriously onyxx is crap never lets me stand on an edge my TC pro's and their xs edge on the other hand are fantastic.
True. I guess I meant of the main market share brands. I'm actually starting to like Evolv's Trax rubber more than XS Edge, but C4 is king. It can hold an edge (obviously), but the friction just isn't there. I've been on slick rock or polished gym holds on edge (TC Pros, Miuras, Katanas), and your foot slides off of them like glass. Compare that to Stealth C4, which holds an edge just as well (my Pinks actually Edge a bit better than my TC Pros, although they're sized more aggressively) AND actually sticks to stuff. I've also never had a 5.10 shoe blow out a toe like all Sportiva shoes seem to do.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply