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Eldo compared to gunks ratings


Original Post
Dana Marie · · Cold Spring · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 75

Hey MP-
Any sense if eldo's grades are comparable to gunks?
I know it's different rock but just curious as to what folks think.

chris_vultaggio · · The Gunks · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 480

Hi Dana - as a gunks climber I felt happily humbled in eldo - the grades felt somewhat close but the funkiness of the gear placements definitely added some challenge.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745

Eldo is a trad area with a proud history of advancing the limits of free climbing (sound like any place around here??). I'd say there's no consistent bias grade-wise vs the Gunks. So, as with any new-to-you area, start off on the conservative side.

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 252

I'm a Gunks regular and I've spent just a few days in Eldo, did the Bastille, Rewritten, Yellow Spur, and some stuff on the Wind Tower. To my mind Eldo is very similar in feel to the Gunks. The cracks are diagonal instead of horizontal but the opportunities for gear are similar and the climbing feels very Gunksy to me. Grades felt just right.

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,270

As folks have mentioned before, both areas have significant history, and both areas became established before or during the era of "5.9"

I've climbed quite a bit in both areas and they are similarly stout for two completely different reasons:

The Gunks is one of the few places where a 5.10 climber could literally get pumped and fall off a 5.4 given enough time hanging out. Would you hang out on Gelsa for 3 hours? Probably not, but the point is that your pump clock seems to always be ticking faster at the Gunks and that can be a hard on the mind when you aren't completely comfortable hanging out. You can't just "stand up" on most of the moderates.

On the note of hanging out, Eldo isn't hard due to the pump clock, but it doesn't have the obvious horizontal cracks to throw for every few meters like you'll find in New Paltz. The interesting, sometimes slick and techy movement found at Eldo can ad some extra spice when a leader, unfamiliar with the Eldo stlye is trying to fiddle in some gear in the middle of a crux.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

I learned to climb in the Gunks before moving out here - I'd drop a grade or more as you get used to the different style, but difficulty wise the numbers have always felt right on track with the Gunks to me.

Stich Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,470

The regular, rotten bands of rock in Eldo are one of the hardest things to get used to I have found. Everything is solid, then you come across piles of loose rock gingerly stacked to the side by previous climbers. Oh, wait. That's almost any route on Sharkstooth in the Park.

Mike McHugh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 454

More info than you asked for, but I'm enjoying a stroll down the memory carriage road.

1) Don't brag about your pink tricam in Eldo. Use it, but just don't talk about it.

2) Respectable poison ivy in Eldo, but no B52-sized horse flies on a mission to get a quart of blood.

3) The gunks humbled me on moderates with devious movement. Eldo humbled me on moderates with slimy movement, runouts, and spicy gear. Like Em said - the ratings feel similar even though the climbing feels different.

4) Beware the + in Eldo. 5.8+ is not 5.8. I don't remember a similar chasm between grades in the Gunks.

5) Similar numbers of college-aged students from the nearby college town tripping balls on any given day.

Dana Marie · · Cold Spring · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 75

4) Beware the + in Eldo. 5.8+ is not 5.8. I don't remember a similar chasm between grades in the Gunks.

It happens often that the + in the Gunks is much harder than the grade, especially at .9+ as a lot of the ratings were given before 5.10 came along.

I think that's why most people think that Gunks .9's are our sandbags.

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,580

Yeah, Modern Times 5.8+ at the Gunks is just as + as anything in Eldo.

Dana Marie · · Cold Spring · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 75

Exactly!!

P2 of Modern Times is not for the budding 5.8 leader.

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

So when a Gunks/Eldo climber travels anywhere else, do they get to complain about how inflated the grades are AND how there's way too much fixed gear?

Stich Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,470
Dana Marie wrote:Exactly!! P2 of Modern Times is not for the budding 5.8 leader.
I got on a lot of classics there, but not that one. :-)
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Austin Baird wrote:So when a Gunks/Eldo climber travels anywhere else
An Eldo climber doesn't have to "travel" to complain about soft grades (and there are always plenty strong climbers around to shut them up). The Gunks climbers, on the other hand...
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,745
Austin Baird wrote:So when a Gunks/Eldo climber travels anywhere else, do they get to complain about how inflated the grades are AND how there's way too much fixed gear?
Well, I DID climb a certain 10a in the Black Corridor at Red Rocks, only to get to the top and wonder, "Where was the 10 part?"
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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