Top Rope Anchors that can be Scrambled to near Santa Ana


Original Post
Dashiell Hammett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Hey,

Been climbing for about two years now, but have been limited in my outdoor experience due to lack of knowledge of the area. I know and have set climbs in Joshua Tree, and hear that parts of Mission Gorge can be back climbed, but have noticed that even routes listed as TR on here don't provide information on how to access them, or if they can be accessed by scrambling. (Starting to learn to lead, but still want to get outside safely without leading)

Any recommendations on routes and locations would be greatly appreciated. And I have had AMGA certified classes on both natural/fixed, and artificial anchors.

Danger-Russ Gordon · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 200

when you say "back climbed" do you mean routes that you can easily get to the anchors to set up a top rope so you don't have to lead? I am not familiar with that term, and I assume others might not be as well

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 511

In order to back climb one needs to back step.

Dashiell Hammett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0
Danger-Russ Gordon wrote:when you say "back climbed" do you mean routes that you can easily get to the anchors to set up a top rope so you don't have to lead? I am not familiar with that term, and I assume others might be as well
Yes, routes where I can scramble up to where the anchors are. It's how one of my climbing partners and mentors has referred to them and I thought that's just what they were called.
Danger-Russ Gordon · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 200

I wish I could give you more beta on specific climbs or crags in southern CA, but in my experience, if the climb has a reasonable way to access the top anchors, you rarely need specific information on how to get up there. I would say if the area you are looking at has routes listed as TR, odds are good you can show up a figure it out without too much trouble. That being said hopefully someone can chime in and give you some more useful recommendations.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 95

If the guidance says that there is a walk off, that means you can also walk up the back (or side) to set up the TR. There are a number of climbs at Josh like that. You can also find crags with a 5.4 or something you can solo to get tot he top of the harder climbs. The walk off may not be described, so you may have to hunt around the rock for it.

Ortega Falls has some routes you can set up and then drop down to the base. In wet years, you have to do it that way, since the base of the climb is the water. You would get lowered to just above the water and then climb out.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/ortega-falls/106002993

Ivan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 5

Mt. Rubidoux has what you're looking for.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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