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The Jay Knower guidebook appreciation thread.....


Original Post
jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,139

And BASHING thread! ;)

I had an opportunity on Saturday to skim Jame's "Field" copy from cover to cover and take a quick peak at the photos, a few routes and the general layout of the guide. At first glance, amazing, inspiring photos! The quality photos stood out first and really step this guide up from the books of the past. THANK GOD their isn't someone topropeing on the cover as well....I mean, what were they thinking. Fantastic Job Jay and the hundreds of hours spent pouring your love out onto paper.

And now for the Bashing (It is the MP forums after all) After only a quick review I noticed 4 routes that have been upgraded from previous printed literature. I am not sure in my mind if this is better or worse than downgrading, but it gave me great pause. Thinking of the near miss of my onsite attempt of Y-crack (Old and in the way), It was 10d for the history of all man kind, but now an 11a. I'll still tell people I missed the 10d on a rock climb, and keep my Ego-Spray-lord self fully engaged into the upgrading for the winter time...

I really don't care, just needed to poke ya man!

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 5,582

Didn't Y-Crack used to be 10c?

The various editions of the Swartling & Mayer guidebook re-jiggered ratings, both up and down. Jay is entitled to his opinion.

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,052
Doug Hemken wrote:The various editions of the Swartling & Mayer guidebook re-jiggered ratings, both up and down. Jay is entitled to his opinion.
Does that mean I'm entitled to think Upper Diagonal is 5.11a? Because it feels like it (maybe even harder) to me.
jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,139

Oh like when you hiked Congrats on lead, but than fell on TR on Upper D?!?!

Joel Allen · · La Crosse, WI · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 265

I'm still saving up for my copy.................

James M Schroeder wrote: Does that mean I'm entitled to think Upper Diagonal is 5.11a? Because it feels like it (maybe even harder) to me.
Don't you climb that like 5x per day James?!
Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 5,582

Only if you write a guidebook, James. Jon's next guidebook will be "Ice Climbs of Necedah".

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,052
Joel Allen wrote:Don't you climb that like 5x per day James?!
No, and unfortunately neither I, nor Jon, are kidding:

jon jugenheimer wrote:Oh like when you hiked Congrats on lead, but than fell on TR on Upper D?!?!
Birch Tree on the other hand...that thing is 5.7.

Birch Tree History
jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,139

on a side note, please tell me more about the Corn Futures James?

I wish I climbed Upper D five times a day. Best 9 at the Lake!

James Schroeder · · Sauk County, WI · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,052
jon jugenheimer wrote:on a side note, please tell me more about the Corn Futures James?
What do you want to know?
e-m-p · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 25

Real talk time Jon. Is this bashing just because in among all the photos of people leading scary 5.11x routes, the only photo of you is on...wait for it...Double Overhang (5.4)?

Chris treggE · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2007 · Points: 9,315

Jay! Will you have some for sale at the craggin Classic?

Jay Knower · · Campton, NH · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 5,333
Chris treggE wrote:Jay! Will you have some for sale at the craggin Classic?
Yup! They'll be for sale at the Wildside booth. On Friday and Saturday evenings I'll be at the booth signing books.
Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110
Jay Knower wrote: Yup! They'll be for sale at the Wildside booth. On Friday and Saturday evenings I'll be at the booth signing books.
silver sharpie please for my book.
jon jugenheimer · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,139

e-m-p....Damn, you just figured out the truth of the matter!

Brandon Seerup · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 8

Thank you Jay! Book is amazing, and will serve as an excellent tool to help all of us enjoy the lake for years to come. I, for one, am actually quite happy with the omission of some of the more obscure walls. For me, it makes the list of climbs by grade in the back more useful, as you can really just work your way down the list without being sent on a bushwhack every other climb.

Apparently paper technology has come a long way, because I was shocked when I noticed that the new book is only maybe 30 pages shy of Swartling 3rd edition. At 1/2 the bulk, this is pretty cool.

Seth Jones · · New Lenox, IL · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 25
e-m-p wrote:Real talk time Jon. Is this bashing just because in among all the photos of people leading scary 5.11x routes, the only photo of you is on...wait for it...Double Overhang (5.4)?
To be fair, he had really run it out in that pic!
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Haha, I found double overhang scary.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,230

Just got mine in the mail. Fab job Jay! I enjoyed the hints at the "controversies"! Also a nice trip down memory lane, wtf was I thinking climbing some of those routes!?

J Achey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 145

As his editor, I'd like to bash the author a bit. He had an opinion about everything, and is probably an undercover agent for the Route Police. He proofed the draft layouts incessantly, and would not let me keep any errors in the book, even after we sent the thing to the printer (I hope there is at least one in there somewhere). He found awesome photos that took no advanced Photoshop skills to make look good, threatening my job security. Plus I don't think he has done any barefoot ascents of note, even though he featured a photo of Eric Z on a barefoot ascent of Ice - as if that is even possible. All in all, Jay produced a book that made me feel bad for not going to the Lake immediately. Thanks a lot, Jay!

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,230

Anyone notice that Jay has the biggest shit-eat'n grin in all his pics? I wonder what he is hiding?!!?

Steve Sangdahl · · eldo sprngs,co · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 735

Nick wrote " hints at controversies " .....at DL? On god's own rock !?? Cool. How about some good old slander? Any? Haven't seen the new guide yet but lookin forward to perusing a copy.
I think Jay is grinning cause he hasn't done any heinous barefooting.....too smart for that.
Thanks Jay for yer efforts on the new guide.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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