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Best routes on Cannon that are not WG, MG or Lakeview?


Original Post
Ira O · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 25

Your opinions? 5.10 and under... and reasonably safe by Cannon standards, pls. Thank you.

Todd Anderson · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 160
Dave Schultz wrote:Vertigo...VMC DD
yup
Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 53

First 2 pitches of Union Jack, Duet, Duet Direct, Slow and Easy, Sticky Fingers.

Dankasaurus · · Lyons, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 85

Raven Corner

approach via Slow and Easy for a nice combo. Often wet but good gear in the hard, coincidentally wet part.

Mark NH · · 03053 · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Odyssey
Slip O Fools
Sinister Satisfaction
Lightning Crack

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Sams ;)

ward smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

I agree with Vertigo. Although it doesn't go to the top, Duet Direct is awesome.

Ira O · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 25

Thank You! that should keep me busy for a bit

ward smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295

Just in case you didn't get it I think that the Sam's recommendation was tongue in cheek. Never done it, but it has quite a reputation for a 5.7, which is why I've never done it!.

Ralf · · MA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

Moonshadow, awesome last pitch

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Sam's is a pile..maybe better frozen.

Ambrosia and Meatgrinder (near WG) are decen

Jay Knower · · Campton, NH · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 5,333

Duet Direct. That second pitch is the best 5.10 pitch in New Hampshire, IMO.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
ward smith wrote:Just in case you didn't get it I think that the Sam's recommendation was tongue in cheek. Never done it, but it has quite a reputation for a 5.7, which is why I've never done it!.
I thought the first 6 or 7 (maybe only 5 - I forget) pitches were great with some really good positions - then it turns to messy crap.
Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

I think the whole thing is pretty fun. kind of like ice climbing but not as cold;)

Ira O · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 25

Haha, its like ice climbing because you could have objects falling from above at any moment ! Nice. Thanks for the input folks!

stephen arsenault · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 50

I also recommend Duet Direct as one of the best 5.10 pitches in NH, with excellent pro.; as well as the 3rd pitch of the VMC Direct/Direct.

Duet Direct reminds me of Yosemite; although I would give it a 10+ rating.

JeffP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 15

Some recommendations on lesser travelled but very worthy routes:

-The corner pitch on moonshadow is as good as 5.9 gets on cannon, though it is unfortunately guarded by two pitches of choss.
- Pitches two and three on VMC Direct (not direct direct) are excellent. The first pitch is a long, unremarkable 5.7. Pitch two is one of the best 5.10 pitches on the cliff (a little heads up) and pitch three is 5.9 that from the belay you swear is going to be 5.11 (steep hands!). Rap here or continue on a well protected and awkward 11+ pitch to join the direct direct.
- While you're in the area, pitch two of Ghostrider is a killer 10+ finger/layback crack. Rap here or keep going for that coveted third ascent! Same first pitch as VMCD but goes all the way to the top of the buttress.
- Whaleback crack is a super cool 5.9 chimney climb with surprisingly clean rock. Again, a bit adventurous to get to but well worth it (I've gone back and done it several times). A very unique pitch for new england

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Didn't Whaleback fall off ???

I'm biased, but Slip O Fools is pretty good..recently replaced fixed gear.

ward smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 295
stephen arsenault wrote:I also recommend Duet Direct as one of the best 5.10 pitches in NH, with excellent pro.; as well as the 3rd pitch of the VMC Direct/Direct. Duet Direct reminds me of Yosemite; although I would give it a 10+ rating.
I thought 10c, but I'm really, really glad that I waited as long as I did, and didn't do it on stoppers and hexes (well before friends) when I was walking the base of Cannon with the Ross/Elms guidebook that rated it 5.9!
JeffP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 15

Sorry, meant to say Whale Watchers. Leftovers from the former Whaleback crack!

HBTHREE · · ma · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 30

wowsers 5.9 for duet direct i guess that'd make it the best 5.9 pitch on cannon moonshadow's right up there to, i did pilaf a few years ago thought it pretty good. i'd add downeast? (10a slab with a bolt right of vertigo), tips treat cleaned up nicely too sticky fingers been mentioned? the older i get the more cannon terrifies me in the summer haha

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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