Modern routes in Yosemite: is it now okay to bolt next to a crack?


Original Post
Plums · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

If it means you don't have to carry a big cam on your rack?
If it means less runout on the pitch?
If it means you don't have to place gear in so-so rock?

Basically, if it increases convenience or reduces risk (to some undefined but small'ish degree), is it okay to bolt next to a crack in Yosemite?

Would like to hear the opinion of anyone who has an opinion, and particularly anyone who has done or is putting up what I hear referred to as "modern routes" in the Valley. We've done a few of these new routes over the last few seasons, and have come to wonder where the majority opinion among Valley climbers falls.

Not talking anchor bolts, though there's a legitimate question there as well. Asking about mid-pitch lead bolts next to cracks that would take gear. So what say you: is that kosher now?

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 461

Getting out the popcorn.

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 643

No.

Matt Carroll · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 5

god I hope thats not kosher

WadeM · · Golden, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 215

Plums: Member Since: Sep 15, 2016

Nuff said

Morgan Patterson · · CT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,332
WadeM wrote:Plums: Member Since: Sep 15, 2016 Nuff said
Always the first check i do...
Leify Guy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 281
Morgan Patterson wrote: Always the first check i do...
The idea behind this thread screams hellenor, however, there weren't enough grammatical errors to convince me...
Micah Klesick · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,834

Troll

NeilB · · Tehachapi, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 30

But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton?
... Syrian refugees? Gender identity?

C Brooks · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 461

^ hahahahaha!

Doug Hemken · · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 5,243

I like the way he concedes that this question *might* just apply to anchors as well - very nice nuance to this troll. It's like presenting just the right fly to the trout, you know?

Jacob Staelin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
NeilB wrote:But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton? ... Syrian refugees? Gender identity?
I think Trump is the best candidate for climbers due to the new route opportunities on the Mexican border wall.
Chuck Becker · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 10

I'm curious what routes you're talking about specifically. The only one I can think of is the 4th pitch of The Great Escape on Chapel Wall - fully bolted TCU size crack. I'd think that pitch in its current state would be highly controversial in a place like Yosemite.

The only reason I can think of to bolt that pitch, that makes any sense to me, is that it wouldn't get get climbed much if left unbolted, i.e. most climbers would rap after completing the 3rd pitch since they'd prefer to not haul up a rack for only one pitch.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 50

Pretty much the standard now in modern climbing. Double Cross in Jtree was the forerunner in this new modern protection philosophy but it keeps getting chopped, BASTARDS!!!

djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

Shouldn't you ask Erik Sloan the self appointed bolt King?

Just stirring the pot

Morgan Patterson · · CT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,332
djh860 wrote:Shouldn't you ask Erik Sloan the self appointed bolt King? Just stirring the pot
Woot Woot!!!11111

derp
Plums · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0
don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

No. Not acceptable. But don't go ripping shit out. If Wootboy has taught us anything, it's that people are going to act with impunity and do whatever they damned well please.

Also, there is no way, unless you have the FA tell you themselves, that you could know whether or not the FA bolted that or not.

What route, what pitch?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 45

Uh...couldn't this logic apply to ANY trad climb?

20 kN · · Hawaii · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,128

The Nose has had a bolt right next to the #2 Stovelegs for years.

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
NeilB wrote:But what do you guys think about Trump? Clinton? ... Syrian refugees? Gender identity?
Trump would totally bolt a crack. Hillary's been bolting cracks for years but always denies it. And those fucking syrian refugees are a bunch of grid bolters. Theres a crack joke related to gender identity but I'm just not quite getting there.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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