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Anchor Replacement Question


Original Post
BrokenChairs BrettC · · Sultan, WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 245

So I have climbed here a couple times of the years and wanted to replace the rats nest of Tat on the anchors in this area with nice painted rap chains. (Note: while this area is listed as being in Arches it is not actually in the park and does not fall into the Arches anchor replacement policy.) My question is what is the best paint to use to camouflage the hardware down there? The stone color is more tan than red at the anchors here. Also if anyone objects to adding chains to these routes feel free to speak up.

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climberkalen · · kern county, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 68

Depending on the hardness of the rock, go Glue Ins. If your spending your time and money on a route, make it last. If your budget restricts glue ins, 1/2 x 5 Powers bolts. As far as paints goes, just match the listed colors as close as you can. Only other climbers will see them, and there a sight for sore eyes, so some visibility is good. Just my opinion

Kauait · · Sandy Utah · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

I like using the rust color in a primer for (metal) chains. The primer sticks a bit better than just paint. Could be a good match just looking at your pictures.
But taking a sample of sand and having it matched at your local store is a fool proof way if your that concerned.

BrokenChairs BrettC · · Sultan, WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 245
climberkalen wrote:Depending on the hardness of the rock, go Glue Ins. If your spending your time and money on a route, make it last. If your budget restricts glue ins, 1/2 x 5 Powers bolts. As far as paints goes, just match the listed colors as close as you can. Only other climbers will see them, and there a sight for sore eyes, so some visibility is good. Just my opinion
Not replacing bolts just webbing nest on bolts with chains/rap rings. Bolts are all in good condition last time I was up there.
BrokenChairs BrettC · · Sultan, WA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 245
Kauait wrote:I like using the rust color in a primer for (metal) chains. The primer sticks a bit better than just paint. Could be a good match just looking at your pictures. But taking a sample of sand and having it matched at your local store is a fool proof way if your that concerned.
thanks for the info.
Kangaru Rat · · Under a Rock · Joined May 2008 · Points: 0

As an alternative to paint which will flake off, consider using un-plated chain that self-rusts. You can accelerate the process by washing and dousing with vinegar. There's not many sources though for un-plated chain - try Lowes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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