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Where should I camp and climb in Moab?

Original Post
Ryan Dirks · · Washington, DC · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 5

I'm planning my bachelor party coming up next march, and am hoping to spend a couple days in Moab hiking, biking, and hopefully climbing. Some of my friends don't have much experience with climbing or even camping for that matter, so I'm looking for something on the cushier side, if that exists in Moab. Not exactly looking for a KOA but at a minimum pit toilets and running water, and showers would be nice. Something like Camp 4 or the bivy at Smith would be perfect.

As for the climbing, I've got a decent amount of crack climbing experience but most of the people coming have just tried climbing in a gym once or twice. Are there any crags in the area that have a couple decent beginner routes (ie 5.7 and under), with a few moderates (5.9-10) for good measure? Extra points for face climbing. Maybe less emphasis on quality of the climbing and more on it just being a cool place to be outside.


apoet · · AZ · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 193

The school room top ropes on Wall Street would be perfect climbing.

Justin Meyer · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2012 · Points: 51

There is camping on 279 nearby the wall street climbing area. Search for camping in google maps.

There is camping in Moab itself if you want showers, etc.

Jay W. · · Longmont, CO · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 25

For camping with showers you're probably going to want one of the RV park type places in town. Or you could just go there and pay for showers when you want them and camp further out of town at one of the BLM sites. Those will be a nicer setting for sure but are first come first serve and its always a struggle to find an open one rolling in at night during peak season. I'd imagine you could reserve a site at an RV park if you wanted to have a place locked down ahead of time.

For climbing check out Ice Cream Parlor in Kane Springs Canyon. Probably the easiest climbing in the area and in a nice setting as well.

Mark Hammond · · Eldorado Springs, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 220

Good advice so far. I gotta go with Wall Street over Ice Cream Parlor, quite a few more easy and face climbing routes. See…
Also, please get educated about climbing after rain and other desert specific concerns. Be the group everyone likes, not a bunch of ***holes. Have fun!

Ryan Dirks · · Washington, DC · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 5

Thanks for the advice so far. It's looking like we'll be spending 2 nights camping, and people are fine with the BLM sites. For the first come-first served sites, what time do they usually fill up? We'll be arriving early afternoon on a Saturday, so I'm a little worried we won't be able to find something. I also see that the campground in Arches will be closed, so I'm expecting it will be more crowded than normal. Maybe we'll get a site in town our first night.

Also, what is the general vibe like in wall street / other popular areas? I'm used to the atmosphere of Smith where it's practically an outdoor gym - people are often happy to share guidebooks / info and point out routes to newcomers. I see that there is very little space by the road so I'm guessing it might be harder to move between areas and scope out routes, but of course I could be wrong.

The school room top ropes look like a decent place to start with the beginners - although I'm hoping to find a bit more in the 5.8-5.9 range. Any more suggestions?

Matt Pierce · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 289

Keep in mind if you really need a shower there are many places in town to pay a few $ and get a shower. My favs are the texaco at the middle of town (they are also a campground and you use those facilities for about $6) and the Moab Rec Center ($4) - because both of these dont time you like Poison Spider and other places do. You can shower as long as you want (and need)...

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,580

The potash road campgrounds will almost certainly be full by Saturday afternoon but will clear out on Sunday, so your plan to line something up in town for saturday is a good one. There are also group sites you can reserve depending on how big your group is. Camping around Moab is competitive when the weather is nice.

There are quite a few good climbs at Wall Street in the 5.8-5.9 range - tons listed on mountainproject. The vibe is friendly and driving between roadside crags is easy.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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