Mountain Project Logo

Auburn Quarry bolts situation


Original Post
James Jaco · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 30

Anyone know the status on some of the bolts on the Scale Wall? I climbed there today and I noticed that a majority if not all the hangers on M&M (5.8) were missing. There are still bolts in the rock with chalk surrounding the bolts, but there are no hangers. I'm just really curious because I know there will be the cave valley climbing fest there in about a month.

Mike Bonvino · · Nevada City, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 40

I climbed there a few weeks ago. Seemed like either there were more bolts than the book said or bolts were missing or hangers were spinning. Not quite 'shit show' status but def bring an extra draw or two for each route and maaaybe a cam to throw in.

lscott991 · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

confirm this, was there 9-12-16 and one bolt/hangar at the top of landslide was missing

James Jaco · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 30

Yep. I noticed the solo hanger on landslide as well. My buddy and I climbed it once each and decided that it was too sketchy to do laps on.

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,470

Those routes see a lot of action so it isn't a surprise that nuts are coming loose and hangers become spinners before coming off. I don't think there are any locals who are maintaining the routes currently. Most of the routes on scale wall are close to 20 years old. Many bolts on that face could use replacement.

I would not recommend placing cams there. If you fell the cam is likely to shatter the cracks as hold a fall. It is a quarry. It has been dynamited thousands of times.

It would be nice if the CRAGS group could monitor the bolt situation up there.

James Jaco · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 30

I commented on one of their Facebook posts and sent them a message. I'll let you know if I find out anymore information.

Matt Franklin · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 470

bump! CRAGS is going to be out at the quarry this weekend and one of the items on the agenda is to scout out and list missing or manky bolts. We will have a bolt kit with us this weekend and can replace bolts or return hangers but the goal is really to make a list for a larger re-bolting effort to happen next fall. If anyone has any other input on where bolts are in need or replacement etc. please post thanks! Hope to see some of you this Saturday!

facebook.com/events/1890760…

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,470

Thanks Matt and CRAGS for maintaining those routes. Aside from any missing or vandalized hangers, I remember the bolts on the unknown 10C on Scale being in poor condition, at least the first few for sure.

The Howler Monkey roof bolts are perpetually spinners, you could probably rehab them fine with a wrench and some lock-tite

ANy chance you guys could add second anchor sets to the routes on Wreckage, where two routes share an anchor?

Any chance of using glue ins for some of these?

cheers

PS - I know some of the naked studs with no hangers are 12mm hardware. I know, because i went up with 3/8" hardware and it didn't fit. So I would recommend getting some 12mm nuts and washers to use, that would probably cover 4 or 5 bolts alone.

Matt Franklin · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 470

Good info thanks!

Eric L · · Roseville, CA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 115

Good info.  I'm going on Saturday for the Adopt a crag event.  I have some hangers and will pick up an assortment of nut sizes - been caught by the mm size bolts before (bottom of three finger salute)

Colby Wangler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 208
EricL wrote:

Good info.  I'm going on Saturday for the Adopt a crag event.  I have some hangers and will pick up an assortment of nut sizes - been caught by the mm size bolts before (bottom of three finger salute)

Quality example of how to solve this missing hanger problem! Thanks in advance!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply