Bolted or trad lines in mills canyon (roy) New Mexico


Original Post
rain cloud · · the abyss (kansas) · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 195

Read somewhere online that there were some going up around the bouldering areas. Would be nice to check it out when I'm out there next month. I haven't bought the guidebook yet so I didn't know if there was any mention of it.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 10,472

The only sport routes I've seen are at the Tiger Stripe Wall of the Middle Mesteno area of Roy. We've looked at them but never taken a rope, harness and draws out there. The rock is beautiful and the routes look fun and challenging. Eight to ten quickdraws ought to cover you, I think. The New Mexico Bouldering guidebook shows the location of the Tiger Stripe Wall but doesn't cover the routes in any detail.

I believe the bulk of the routes are in the 5.11 range with a number of 5.12s and a few 5.10s.

rain cloud · · the abyss (kansas) · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 195

Oh man, sounds great, getting super amped already. Hopefully it stays somewhat warm.

Owen Summerscales · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,098

There's about 20 routes on Tiger Stripe Wall. They look easier than they climb. There's also some sport routes in Mills Canyon, and some trad routes that are being developed. The rock is incredible, and the winter season makes a nice change for a northern NM sport crag.

Andrew B. Ellis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Is there anywhere that the beta on routes is posted/available? I plan to go out there in Oct, and would love to get some sport climbing in in addition to the excellent bouldering.

Owen Summerscales · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,098

I will send a PM.

William Penner · · The 505 · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 455

Owen, you gonna send them the topo I created for the routes? Otherwise I can...

Also, there are routes in locations other than the Tiger Stripe wall, but mostly 1-2 routes per spot. Loads of potential and the TS routes are really good.

magoo · · Duke City · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 125

At last count there were 30+ sport routes at the Tiger Stripe and, with perhaps a couple of exceptions, they are all really good. They tend to be rather short(4-5 bolts to chains) and as Owen suggests above, deviously more difficult then they appear. Definitely worth bringing along the sport gear. I drew up a rough topo of the area a while back that is floating around out there somewhere (same one mentioned by William above?) It showed most of the routes with estimated grades. 

Andrew B. Ellis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks, Owen reached out to me, hope to get that topo soonish ☺. Anyone know the policy on bolting new routes out there currently? Just curious more than anything.

George Perkins · · The Dungeon, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 3,115

Would it be tragic if someone were to post the beta for these climbs / Roy in general on mountainproject? It's not like the area is still off-the-radar any more.. (on a weekend last winter, I saw more people at the Jumbles than I've ever seen at any climbing area in NM except for the Box Bouldering Comp).  The sport climbs aren't in the guidebook, and posting the area might be a good way to inform climbers on where/ how to climb & camp there in a way that keeps us acting as a responsible user group and respectful of ranchers & private property. 

No personal conviction either way (I'm pretty sure I have the topo), just a thought.  Thanks for bolting the lines and sharing the info, for those who sent it to me a year or 2 ago.

Andrew B. Ellis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

What this guy said

Road West · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

I put up a single pitch crack on the most obvious wall across the canyon from the Plateau. Splitter. 5.10. Chain anchors.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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