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Clifton, ME Crags Info

Original Post
zwms · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Anyone have thoughts on the best of the Clifton area crags for a few hours of afternoon TR? I am confident leader up to 11+, but going with a friend who has never belayed a leader before. Might feel okay to run some 6/7 stuff if that would help to set TR anchors. Also - any beta on climbing the day after a little rain?

As an aside, if anyone needs partner for Monday afternoon, happy to belay!

Travis Vicary · · New Hampshire · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

For a short approach/easy area, the practice wall at Eagle's Bluff comes to mind. There are some pretty good moderate climbs there.

zwms · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks Travis. I took a run out to Park Pond the other day just to scout, and it seems really easy to access the top out there and throw ropes down. Do you think Eagle might be even better for TR setup?

Travis Vicary · · New Hampshire · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0

I feel like Eagle's would have more opportunities for quality TR setups. If you can locate a narrow ledge that runs over the practice wall, you would have lots of options. Also, the guide book to Clifton may be helpful for locating various areas.

Jayson Nissen · · Corvallis, OR · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 263

At Parks Pond
The mushroom wall and maple run wall at Parks Pond are easy to set top ropes on. I used to TR solo out there when I couldn't find a partner. I think most of the routes are 10 or harder so your friend might not have much to do.

You might also think about leading the Mountaineers Route at Parks pond (5.5) which i believe gives you access to several anchors

Eagle Bluff
It is easy to set up TR's on the entrance wall, most of the practice wall left, and most of the practice wall right. Some routes will require exposed scrambling but nothing to bad. I think that Eagles is a better option because you will be able to TR routes from 5.5 to 11d.

zwms · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

Thanks all for your help. We wound up at Parks, and I was able to setup a TR on what must have been the Mushroom Wall (slightly overhanging, down at the left end of the Main Cliff). Worked out fine for the few hours we had.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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