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Sturtevant Falls Climbing - old bolts?


Original Post
Fernando Cal · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 5

A few weeks ago I was at Sturtevant Falls with two friends and practicing rappelling and anchor building. On my way down the rock face of the falls, I saw a few old bolts, as well as one old rusted bolt on the top ledge. I did some research online and found nothing about established routes in the area.

Does anyone have any history of rock climbing in the falls? I might plan a trip this or next weekend and do more searching, or attempt to climb depending on what I find.

Fernando

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

where is this place located?

sometimes spots get different names by climbers.

Fernando Cal · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 5
Guy Keesee wrote:where is this place located? sometimes spots get different names by climbers.
These are the coordinates off google maps: 34.211526, -118.019713

You drive up to Chantry Flats off the 210 and Santa Anita Ave then hike down to the falls. It's actually a nice hike, minus the hundreds of LA hikers.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Fernando.... I know nothing about that place. Eton falls is close by so I thought it might be the same place.

Looks like junk climbing wise, Eton Falls is Junk also. Lots of climbers have lived in that part of the city.

Be careful climbing on old rusty bolts.... some good some not so good.

Fernando Cal · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 5
Guy Keesee wrote:Fernando.... I know nothing about that place. Eton falls is close by so I thought it might be the same place. Looks like junk climbing wise, Eton Falls is Junk also. Lots of climbers have lived in that part of the city. Be careful climbing on old rusty bolts.... some good some not so good.
Yea judging by the look of those two bolts I wouldn't trust them AT ALL. I'll set up an anchor and rap down to inspect the rest of the wall. I just wanted to see if anyone had any history on the area. It's too crowded by tourists and day hikers.

I wonder if any of the "locals" know anything about who might've put those bolts there...
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Sturtevant Camp is about two miles out of Chantry Flats, out of Arcadia. About a 50' waterfall in a rocky bowl. Typical San Gabe chossy granite.

Fernando Cal · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 5
Fat Dad wrote:Sturtevant Camp is about two miles out of Chantry Flats, out of Arcadia. About a 50' waterfall in a rocky bowl. Typical San Gabe chossy granite.
The rock was actually not bad at all. Very solid with underclings, pinchers, and crimps. A few spiders and some dirt but no holds breaking. Ended up setting a top rope from a ledge about 90ft up and had some fun for a bit.

One bolt on top (no hangar) and one really old rusty pin with hangar on the first ledge. No other bolts found on route (that I could see)...
Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,536

Hey Fernando, I went hiking here last weekend and was surprised to see a pretty clean vertical looking face here.  Any updates on history or the climbing?  I figure you can squeeze in a couple of lines but I'm wondering if it's worth it.  Thanks,

Fernando Cal · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 5
Mike Womack wrote:

Hey Fernando, I went hiking here last weekend and was surprised to see a pretty clean vertical looking face here.  Any updates on history or the climbing?  I figure you can squeeze in a couple of lines but I'm wondering if it's worth it.  Thanks,

Hi Mike,

Nothing much on climbing history there from what I've dug around. I have talked to a few people that frequent the area or live in the cabins down there but no one knew much. I do want to go back and try other lines apart from that TR route I did on the farther right side of the rock (near the vines). 

And I agree, there is some potential for some routes. Rock needs a bit of cleaning but could be fun to explore a bit. 

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Are you talking about setting up anchors and TRing or just putting a bunch of bolts on something that most everyone else thought to leave well enough alone?  We are talking about a very visible section of rock that would make for some pretty short, contrived routes.  

Mike Womack · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1,536

I think we are all on the same page here that it's a very visible and popular area and no bolts were planning on being installed. It looks like you can walk to the top where a good sized living tree is so that's what I had in mind.  

Russ Walling · · www.FishProducts.com · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,175

Maybe Russ Anderson placed them for the Sierra Madre Search and Rescue team training.  There are more bolts all over the place up Eaton Canyon and Bailey Canyon, the Water Caves etc.  Altadena used to have a rescue team too I believe.

Fernando Cal · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 5
Fat Dad wrote:

Are you talking about setting up anchors and TRing or just putting a bunch of bolts on something that most everyone else thought to leave well enough alone?  We are talking about a very visible section of rock that would make for some pretty short, contrived routes.  

No, no bolts at all!. That'll just draw more crowds to an already overpopulated hiking trail. The two times I've climbed there I've used the tree on top as a rap anchor, then rapped to the ledge up top, set up a TR anchor with some cams and nuts, and TR is done. Felt like I was part of a circus with all the hikers looking and asking questions about what I was doing. Wouldn't mind going back and trying other lines but the drive, the parking, and the crowds keep me away. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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