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Need some info on good women's climbing shoes

Original Post
Sebastian Bailey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

I'm looking to buy a new pair of climbing shoes for my girlfriend for her upcoming birthday, but I was hoping for help on specifics. My shoe knowledge is pretty limited.

TL:DR:Looking for a women's shoe that can perform on small holds, but is comfortable enough to take on 2-3 pitch climbs. And not TC Pros.

She hasn't been climbing too long, but boulders V7 and climbs in the 11-12 range at the moment.

She's had a pair of mythos for about a year, but they're a little beat down from the miles she's put on them and they just don't really stick on the routes she's been climbing.

She does a good amount of bouldering, but wants the ability to take the shoes on a multi-pitch when the opportunity arises (read: sacrifice bouldering performance for ability to wear the shoe for longer than 3 minutes).

She is super keen on the TC Pros (as am I), but I can't seem to find them in her size anywhere. I've heard good things about the Muiras (not the Muira VS), and an REI salesman recommended the Finales to her, but they seem like an out and out beginner's shoe and I'm worried she'd just run into the same problem she has with the Mythos.

Any and all suggestions are helpful.



David Deville · · Flagstaff, Arizona · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

The scarpa techno's are a pretty great all around shoe with good performance (just got a pair of the women's version for my wife and she really likes them so far - she is using them as a trad/sport shoe and climbs mostly 5.9 to 5.11+). The problem you will run into is how to choose the size. I'd never go bouldering in my multi pitch shoes and vice versa. My all day shoes are a full size and a half larger than my bouldering shoes.

Justin Barrett · · Russellville, AR · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 85

My gf currently has the finale and from what she says can be boiled down to a few points. it's great for edges and small nibs. It's s little stiff for smearing, but it can do it okay-ish. Heel hooks are fine. Rubber has been durable. the laces are way too long and should be replaced with a shorter set. The pull tab on the back and the "v" in the leather on the heel rubs your Achilles tendon and will cause a blister until you form a callous or tape your tendon.

Other than that it's a sold, simple shoe

Aerili · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,970

She needs two pair of shoes. Otherwise she's gonna get a shoe that does one thing well and the other thing less well, or both things "meh". The right ones are the ones that fit her well. I can only wear certain models in La Sportiva, Evolv, and Tenaya. Some people have a more generic foot I guess, but I really think strangers recommending shoes with no knowledge of a person's foot shape is not that helpful. It is more helpful to at least know a manufacturer that usually fits that particular climber's foot.

P.S. Most Sportiva shoes do not fit like the Mythos, either. The Miura is vastly more painful, for instance.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

First, disclose what size of TC Pros she is looking for.
Second, tell us what she is wearing for bouldering.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

Check out the Five Ten Quantum. Stiff sole so you can size them a little more comfortably, but still get edging power.

M Bageant · · Cambridge, MA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 50

Really good all-around shoes; probably best to have her try them on to gauge comfort:
5.10 Anasazi LV
La Sportiva Katana Lace (same last as the TC Pro)
La Sportiva Miura
Tenaya Oasi
Tenaya Inti

Scarpa Techno was awesome but runs very, very small and narrow in the women's shoe. I can't wear Scarpa so I can't comment on them.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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