Best camping in Leavenworth?


Original Post
Josh Carpenter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

I have a trip planned to the icicle creek. Any advice on the best and closest camping close to the walls?

Dan Cooksey · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365

Where did you plan on climbing? Or just in general?

Bill 1552 · · Portland, OR · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 295

Get there early. We arrived mid afternoon on a Friday and the first several campgrounds were all full. We ended up at Upper Johnny Creek Campground which was Ok but required driving to climb each day. The Eight Mile Campground is the closest to Leavenworth and has climbing within hiking distance but it was full it seemed like it would be hard to get a spot, many of the sites can be reserved online. Good luck, fun climbing once you get there.

Dan Cooksey · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365

If 8mile is full try the bridgecreek campground. A few more miles up the road at the turn for the Stuart Lake trailhead. There is some free camping passed the campground, across the bridge on the left.

If you are camping in a vehicle its usually cool to sleep in the lot just above Barneys Rubble.

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow · · Bozeman, Montana · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

You can also camp at the Forestland Boulders lot for free, but it's not exactly scenic...

Edit: looks like things have changed. Don't camp there. Been a few years. Free camping across the creek from Bridge Creek can either be pleasant or an utter gong show, don't count on it being pleasant on a weekend.

Mike Brady · · Van Diesel, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 681

Camping at the Forestland lot as far as I know is frowned upon and as of late has been patrolled.

Josh Carpenter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Thanks guys. Sounds like there are a lot of options. It will be my first time there. Where do you recommend climbing going for 5.10 and under?

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 35
Josh Carpenter wrote:Thanks guys. Sounds like there are a lot of options. It will be my first time there. Where do you recommend climbing going for 5.10 and under?
For trad: outer space (5.9, 5 pitches) snow creek wall. Splitter!!! Crux is short and not that bad, the rest of the climbing is 5.8 or less

For sport: condorphamine addiction (5.10b, 7 pitches). Super fun jaunt, lots of safe bolts, well protected cruxes. 2 5.10 pitches, the rest are easier.
Dan Cooksey · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365

There are some short fun multi-pitch routes in Icicle Creek Butress. These are great intro to trad leads. There are 5.6 to 5.8 and harder

Jimmy Downhillinthesnow · · Bozeman, Montana · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

Outer Space is great, but if 5.9 trad is your limit I wouldn't recommend it. The crux is short but somewhat finicky. Gear at the crux is good, but there are also some lose flakes to negotiate.

Pearly gates are a great crag for your range. Even have some fun bolted climbs.

Matthew Tangeman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 35

Castle Rock: Catapult, The Bone, South Face Jello into Midway, Canary... all some of my favorites in the area, all under 5.10, all really steep, exposed, and fun for the grades.

Curt Veldhuisen · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 425

+1 for Castle Rock, and Clem's Holler is also loaded with good 9s and 10s. Neither tends to be very crowded...

...unlike Outer Space. It is super classic, so go on a week day and be prepared to do Orbit if you don't want to wait in line. Beautiful season to visit Lworth!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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