Partner for el cap


Original Post
Jake wander · Sep 7, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5
I'm looking for someone, ideally living in MInnesota, who wants to climb el cap. The plan would be to climb it in 2017. I have been planning to climb lurking fear but would consider other easy clean aid routes. I'm not looking for someone who has no multipitch or lead climbing experience.

If we end up agreeing on the route and feel comfortable with each others experience, I would like to spend time at Taylor's and the north shore getting our system down.

I've led 10-15 pitches of C2 so I have my system but I'd like to get in a lot more pitches.

Send me a pm if interested.

mark55401 · Sep 8, 2016 · Minneapolis · Joined May 2011 · Points: 83
I'd be up for aiding local stuff over the next few months

Nicholas Aretz · Sep 8, 2016 · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5
I would recommend going for the nose. Lurking Fear approach sucks!

Scoop · Sep 8, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0
Nick, you're trolling right, or whatever it is called to bait a discussion?

Jake wander · Sep 8, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5
mark55401 wrote:I'd be up for aiding local stuff over the next few months
Mark do you have any interest in lurking fear or just practicing aid locally?

Nicholas Aretz · Sep 10, 2016 · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5
Scoop wrote:Nick, you're trolling right, or whatever it is called to bait a discussion?
I am just providing my opinion. Have you ever hiked with a portaledge? Up 3rd/4th class terrain? With 3+ days of water?

I have and it sucks!

The nose approach is a walk in the park and there are natural ledges you can sleep on so you don't need a ledge.

The grades are very similar and correct me if I wrong but I believe there are more pitches you can free at a moderate grade on the Nose.

Scoop, I am not sure if you have climbed Lurking Fear but I have attempted it. If you are planning on doing Lurking Fear and using a ledge then I recommend planning on doing the approach in two trips, or hire some dirtbags to carry gear up for you.

Stage your water!!!!!!

Jake good luck on your trip! I plan on going back myself and finishing Lurking Fear.

EB · Sep 10, 2016 · Winona · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 670
You dont need to haul water for lurking fear as there is water at the base of the route. One haul no problem. Also, LF is easier than the Nose due to it being more straight up with less lower outs and pendulums to clean....

Jake wander · Sep 10, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5
Thanks guys. There are a few reasons I'm shooting for lurking fear over the nose. The free climbing is easier, the route is shorter and lf should have less people so I will hopefully being holding up less people as this is my first big wall.

Nicholas Aretz · Sep 10, 2016 · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5
I would go for Wasington Colum or Leaning Tower. I desided to try Leaking Fear as my first wall and I learned wall climbing is harder than you can imagine.

mark55401 · Sep 11, 2016 · Minneapolis · Joined May 2011 · Points: 83
not sure I have enough time off in 2017 to make a Valley trip, but aiding Palisade Head or even Taylors is fun. next few weeks are pretty open for me

EB · Sep 12, 2016 · Winona · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 670
Agree with Nicholas, getting on El Cap for your first wall is nearly a guaranteed failure. Climbing is the easy part. Get on a wall in Zion or a grade IV/V wall first to dial in systems.

Sam Keller · Sep 12, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0
I did Lurking Fear as my first wall. It was an amazing experience. Mainly for all of the reasons you listed. It wasn't busy, it was straight forward and fun. The Nose is full of people, there is piss all over the ledges, and it is a lot of slabby hauling!

Have fun on Lurking Fear!

Jake wander · Sep 12, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5
Sam Keller wrote:I did Lurking Fear as my first wall. It was an amazing experience. Mainly for all of the reasons you listed. It wasn't busy, it was straight forward and fun. The Nose is full of people, there is piss all over the ledges, and it is a lot of slabby hauling! Have fun on Lurking Fear!
Sam thanks for the encouraging response. I was starting to wonder..,.

Sam Keller · Sep 12, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0
There will always be reasons to bail on a wall. The ones who summit are the ones who go for it and don't bail. If you practice your systems before, bring lots of water, and go for it you will send.

The dude telling you the approach sucks must be a sport climber ;) complaining about a 45min-1 hour walk! The approach sucks, but then you get to climb! Why even bother to climb el cap?!? Afterwards the descent is hard!

Barrett Pauer · Sep 12, 2016 · Brevard, NC · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 225
Don't bail

Doug Hemken · Sep 13, 2016 · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 5,235
Compared to the Nose, the approach to anything at Devils Lake "sucks"! The approach to Lurking Fear will require some work, but it's short.

The normal route on Liberty Cap, the SW Face, is another great grade V.

If you go with your systems well practiced, you'll get LF. If you go with too little experience, you'll go too slowly for your food and water.

Nicholas Aretz · Sep 13, 2016 · Lakewood, Colorado · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 5
Sam Keller wrote:The dude telling you the approach sucks must be a sport climber ;) complaining about a 45min-1 hour walk! The approach sucks, but then you get to climb! Why even bother to climb el cap?!? Afterwards the descent is hard!
Why you dissing sport climbers? They crush harder than you ; ) And then you agreed that the approach sucks?

Anyone telling you the approach is easy is full of it and unwilling to be honest about what wall climbing is like. Wall climbing is a ton of work and an incredible experience at the same time.

My mentor told me that if anyone is saying that wall climbing is easy they are lying to you and I would agree with him. A very established wall climber told me before we started off, "Let the suffering begin."

Jake I though systems were the key to climbing a wall, they are important, but being physically fit is super important also. You will be working hard for days straight and if you need to rest during every haul it will slow you down big time.

I am not trying to discourage you from climbing LF but instead saying don't underestimate it. It is a great choice for first route on El Cap. I would try to find someone who has wall experience and climb it with them.

Best of luck on your partner search!

Peter L Scott · Sep 13, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 36
Picking the right route, getting your systems down, being in top condition, researching the route and gear you'll need, all very good advice. Here are some personal qualities I think are important.

Willing to work hard. When people tell you it's harder work than you think, believe them.

High mechanical aptitude and able to problem solve quickly. After all aid and big wall climbing is mostly about solving mechanical problems under stress.

Tenacity. Can you battle through when every cell in your brain is screaming "GO DOWN, THIS IS CRAZY, IT'S TOO HARD"

In 1987 my partner and I bellied up to Triple Direct on El Cap. Neither of us had climbed anything taller than Devils Tower. Hell, we didn't even know anyone who had climbed something taller than the Tower. We were self taught, no internet, no mentors, no how to books about aid and big wall climbing. We both did a half a pitch of aid two days before we started up and deemed our self's ready. We packed our army duffel bag with not enough food and water. But plenty of cigarettes. Racked our two sets of ridged stemmed Friends, an odd assortment of nuts, a handful of pins, and a bolt kit just in case. Then headed up. Five days later two skinny, dehydrated, and dirty guys pulled on to the top of El Cap. Then proceeded to get lost on the descent. But that's a whole 'nother story!

I know you were asking about a partner not encouragement. I can't help but encourage someone who is thinking of doing their first wall. My first wall will always bring a smile to me. On the partner thing, mine has been one of my closest friends for over thirty years now. We went on to climb much more difficult things in better style. But both of us are more proud of this ascent than any other we did.

My point really is, if two knuckle heads from Minnesota who had no business being on El Cap can do it, so can you.

Jake wander · Sep 13, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 5
Peter L Scott wrote:Picking the right route, getting your systems down, being in top condition, researching the route and gear you'll need, all very good advice. Here are some personal qualities I think are important. Willing to work hard. When people tell you it's harder work than you think, believe them. High mechanical aptitude and able to problem solve quickly. After all aid and big wall climbing is mostly about solving mechanical problems under stress. Tenacity. Can you battle through when every cell in your brain is screaming "GO DOWN, THIS IS CRAZY, IT'S TOO HARD" In 1987 my partner and I bellied up to Triple Direct on El Cap. Neither of us had climbed anything taller than Devils Tower. Hell, we didn't even know anyone who had climbed something taller than the Tower. We were self taught, no internet, no mentors, no how to books about aid and big wall climbing. We both did a half a pitch of aid two days before we started up and deemed our self's ready. We packed our army duffel bag with not enough food and water. But plenty of cigarettes. Racked our two sets of ridged stemmed Friends, an odd assortment of nuts, a handful of pins, and a bolt kit just in case. Then headed up. Five days later two skinny, dehydrated, and dirty guys pulled on to the top of El Cap. Then proceeded to get lost on the descent. But that's a whole 'nother story! I know you were asking about a partner not encouragement. I can't help but encourage someone who is thinking of doing their first wall. My first wall will always bring a smile to me. On the partner thing, mine has been one of my closest friends for over thirty years now. We went on to climb much more difficult things in better style. But both of us are more proud of this ascent than any other we did. My point really is, if two knuckle heads from Minnesota who had no business being on El Cap can do it, so can you.
Hey thanks a ton. That's great to hear. Especially being a knucklehead from MN myself

Sam Keller · Sep 14, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 0
Nicholas Aretz wrote: Why you dissing sport climbers? They crush harder than you ; ) And then you agreed that the approach sucks? Anyone telling you the approach is easy is full of it and unwilling to be honest about what wall climbing is like
I was dissing sport climbers in jest.... It's a well known trope that sport climbers don't like long approaches. That's why I put a ;) at the end of the sentence....

Yeah, wall climbing is hard.............. That's the POINT of doing it! That's all my point is. If you are going to bail because the approach is hard then you were probably going to bail anyways.

I never said the approach is easy, but it sure as hell isn't a reason not to climb Lurking Fear.

Doug Hemken · Sep 14, 2016 · Madison, WI · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 5,235
The approach to Lurking Fear *is* easy ... just not compared to The Nose.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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