30 Pitches in a day in North Conway


Original Post
Jcomeau · · North Conway · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 630

A while back me and my buddy Tim had an idea. While talking about John Bachars exploits the story of his elcap day in Joshua tree came up. We thought lets try our own elcap day. 30 pitches totaling 3000 ft. The goal was to do routes below our limit and ones we were familiar with so we could focus on just being efficient on lead, at belays, etc. We made a plan to do routes on Whitehorse and Cathedral. The plan was Original Standard to the lunch ledge, Beginners RH to the overlap, Cormier Magness to the top, Thin Air, Bombardment, Funhouse>Upper.
Attempt One came on Aug. 1. Got to the slabs at 6am. Made great time through all of our chosen routes. Back at the car at 11am. We drove to cathedral to get some food and add up pitches thus far. After adding up we came to the conclusion we did not need to do bombardment. Now to get started on Thin Air. It started to rain before we left the car. We tried in between showers to get on thin air but it was just too wet thereby ending that attempt.
While planning our next attempt, we changed our route list around a bit. We decided to replace Beginners RH with Beginners LH for a more consistent and aesthetic link up. Adding up the pitches we came up short so we also added Pine Tree. So the day looked like this. Standard to lunch ledge, Beginners to the top of the arch, Cormier Magness to the top, walk off. Thin Air>Pine Tree, Funhouse LH>Upper Refuse.
We set up two separate racks and planned to start at 6am.
Second Attempt came on Sept 6. After a little late of a start we got to the base of standard at 6:50am. By 7:30 we were setting up our raps from the lunch ledge. After some cluster during our first rappel we were on the ground in 3 raps and getting ready to start Beginners. We forgot to record specific times between Standard and Beginners. We were back on the ground at 9:10 from Beginners. We started up Cormier Magness at 9:30 after a 20 minute water/snack break. By 10:30 we were on our way back to the car. Over to the cathedral for some food and water. At 12:20 we were heading up to Thin Air. We were waiting for a party to finish Pinetree at 1:50 and on the top heading back down for round 2 at 3:10. Jogged over to funhouse and started up at 3:45. We collapsed at the summit at 5:40 pm.
At the end of the day we had climbed 30 pitches and 3080ft in just under 11 hours. At no point did we feel rushed. Just efficient and comfortable as partners could be moving over stone. We both felt accomplished at the end of it and super stoked for the next adventure.

6:45 Left Car
6:50 Base of Standard
Forgot Times Between Standard and Beginners
9:10 On ground from Beginners
9:30 Started Cormier
10:20 Top out Cormier
11:00 Return to Car
12:20 Leave car for Thin Air
1:50 Top Out Thin Air
Bit of a wait for a party on Pinetree
3:10 Top of Pinetree
3:45 Start Funhouse
5:40 Top out Upper Refuse.

afrongillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 15

Well done boys! Glad to hear weather cooperated and you didn't have to deal with a lot of parties.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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