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Zion and surroundings


Original Post
Mario Castellanos · · Ontario · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Hello I'm heading to Zion in early October (6-9th). I have been to the park before but I have not climbed or and I don't have a climbing book guide. Any suggestions on favorite routes and books? Thanks !

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

The best book is Supertopo, Bryan Bird, 300 Free and Clean. Still available for sale most anywhere. What trad grade are you interested in? Zion is not a place for sport climbing.

This is first hand beta collection from one climber/leader/source of many of those routes through 5.11.

Zion Free Route Climbs

Kung Fu Fighter, one of the few I repeat at least every year.

Mario Castellanos · · Ontario · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Thanks for the info! I'm looking for moderates 5.9 and under. I think I may have to drive out of Zion to find this grade?

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

Very few 9's in Zion Mario. Ashtar Command and Mrs Butterworth are the more notable ones. Both are pretty damn short. Led by Sheep on Aires Butte and Checkerboard Mesa are popular ones, but they are more mid 5th scrambles than climbs. South Face Diagonal on the Great White Throne is a bit more challenging and adventurous.

Mrs Butterworth


Ashtar Command


Weeping Rock Chimney, Rain and Right Toilet Crack are short multi pitches that are worthy and within your range. Of course there are a few single pitches 5.9's on Cerberus Gendarme that are worthy as well. There is an easy and long 5.8-9 route up East Temple, but you would have to email me for that beta. Nothing to write home about, but makes for a long ascent to a summit.

Good luck with your trip.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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