Rapping off the top of Taqhquitz, rap station just to the climber left of Ski Tracks


Original Post
BryanOC · · All over · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

I don't particularly enjoy the friction descent at the top of Tahquitz. It isn't super difficult, I just don't enjoy it. I was hoping the rap is better.

I spotted a bolted anchor halfway up the wall, climbers left of the Ski Tracks. Is there a reliable way to figure out where to rap from the top so you hit that bolted anchor? Such as a tree with rings up at the top? Or anything else up there that tells me I'm above that bolted anchor?

And do you save any time doing two raps to the ground vs. the friction descent?

Would love to hear your beta if you have done it! Thanks guys/gals!

Crackist · · Palm Desert, CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 5

I don't particularly enjoy topping out on Tahquitz without fresh Starbucks. It isn't super bummer, I just don't enjoy it. There needs to be a Starbucks on top of Tahquitz.

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 307

I have started the friction descent at the same time as another group began rapping down that route. I beat them by a significant margin. Same thing with a group rapping down near Angel's Fright (from tree to tree, starting around lunch ledge I think). Maybe if you had the raps super dialed it could be different, but honestly the friction descent is very fast and efficient.

George Wu · · Newport Beach, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 76

I'm with you, Bryan. Rapping is kinda fun; the friction descent not so much.

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 10,121

We don't need a change here, the descent is part of a day at Tahquitz.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Crackist wrote:I don't particularly enjoy topping out on Tahquitz without fresh Starbucks. It isn't super bummer, I just don't enjoy it. There needs to be a Starbucks on top of Tahquitz.
Why not a helpful reply instead of snark?
Or maybe not say anything?
Kelly Kropko · · San diego, CA · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 60

friction is much easier than rapping. The rap is a pain in the ass. I've done a dbl rope rap off the bolts at the top out of open book. Pulling the rope is a mess with all the chicken heads on the south face. Save yourself the trouble and get extra exercise by doing the walk off. You will earn yourself an extra beer at cafe aroma.

Matt Himmelstein · · Orange, California · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 115
Kelly Kropko wrote:friction is much easier than rapping. The rap is a pain in the ass. I've done a dbl rope rap off the bolts at the top out of open book. Pulling the rope is a mess with all the chicken heads on the south face. Save yourself the trouble and get extra exercise by doing the walk off. You will earn yourself an extra beer at cafe aroma.
We did three raps off the bolts on Open Book and had no problems. The real advantage is that I would not have to lug up a pack with my approach shoes for the walk off.
kevin graves · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 10

There is a rap anchor using webbing on a boulder at the true summit (saw this after climbing Consolation). The webbing needs to be replaced as the tails from the water knot are only about 1/4' long. I didn't have a knife or enough long webbing or I would have fixed it myself.

Still by the time you climb up to this spot, rig a rap and find another rap station; you would be much better off just climbing down.

BryanOC · · All over · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Thank you to those with the helpful replies! Looks like walking off is still my best option if I want to be quicker, but rappelling more fun. I took two tahquitz first timers and they really didn't enjoy the walk off which I understand.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Fastest way down is to down-climb the trough......

jest saying.

Bradley Gorsline · · Pasadena, California · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 280

You can rap directly to the anchors you mentioned from the top of open book with a 70m and then to the ground. The rap from open book is pretty far off to climbers right and pretty awkward and would not recommend, but it is possible.

Fernando Cal · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 5
Guy Keesee wrote:Fastest way down is to down-climb the trough...... jest saying.
Unless there's four or more parties climbing up, in which case it might be a wash...
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310
Fernando Calderon wrote: Unless there's four or more parties climbing up, in which case it might be a wash...
Then it is much safer.... you can grab onto the people up-climbing if you fall........ :>) LOL LOL
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply

Log In to Reply