C'est La Vie Eldo New Bolt(s)


Original Post
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 511

I climbed this route the other day and many other times over the last 15 years or more. I remember the discussion last year to add a bolt where the old bent pin was. For various reasons including a potentially dangerous block, the bolt was approved. The archived application can be seen on the ACE site. Public input was allowed. The committee approved it. It was installed making 2 bolts on the route. Fine. No issues here.

But, there is a 3rd bolt on it now about a body length below the one that was approved. I'm sure this was discussed somewhere. I just can't find it. What is surprising and disappointing about this bolt is the affect on the psychology of the route, not the safety. This would be a spoiler alert if you have not climbed it. But, with the bolt, there is nothing to spoil. Before bolt 3 was added, one would climb off the start ledge (which is 25 feet above the ground) somewhat cruxy move with one piece. Then, good gear is available and the climbing eases up a bit for another 20 feet. Then, it appears there are no gear options for 2 or 3 body lengths when one would reach the new bolt. So, one needs to commit. But, after 1 body length or so, one comes to a good stance and there are at least two placements available, one being very solid in a downward crack. Here is the new third bolt. What gives.

I understand the new second bolt to prevent a block coming down potentially injuring the climber and belayer and changing the route permanently. But, why this bolt? Did I miss this discussion somewhere. How soft are we going to make Eldo. Forgive me if this was discussed elsewhere. I only looked in the Ace archive.

Maybe we should add a cordalette, and equalette, a quad and jmarsella's super anchor to this route.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 511

I knew I could count on you. Lets get out again sometime.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 576

Greg - Unfortunately your memory has tricked you. Although the lowest bolt is a beefy new stainless 1/2" PowerBolt, it is not a new/added pro placement. This is a photo of the bolt that was in that exact location for ~25+ years:

1st lead bolt from P1 of C'est la Vie. Replaced 1/25/2015 by a 1/2" SS bolt in the same hole.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 511

Damn memory.

Can we remove it?

The bolt that is. My memory has already been removed.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 576

You are welcome to submit an application to remove it. Still would require a public vote.

Steve Sangdahl · · eldo sprngs,co · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 695

That lower bolt has been there for at least 35 years plus. If you look carefully all along the route there are various holes from other random bolts placed on and off over the years.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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