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Going from gym to Thin Air on Cathedral Ledge in NH

Original Post
XX0011 Moy · · Newport, RI · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Nvm I got it!

Brian L. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 90

I'm inclined to believe this is legit after looking up facebook...

So basically: yes, you may be able to climb this route by the end of fall. You may not necessarily lead it - I'll leave that up to you.

It sounds like you need to find a mentor, or hire a guide to really get an idea of what trad climbing is about. It'll snowball from there. Try seeing if you can find someone in the gym who is experienced and willing to take you out if you don't want to pay. Most people will probably recommend following and cleaning gear for a while before trying t lead yourself. The idea being you study their placement's, and learn that way, before attempting your own placement's.

ZABain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Hi, Eamonn! (Also assuming this is sincere) Thin Air is a great route and definitely a great goal climb for a new leader. I'm not the most seasoned climber (about two years), but I started leading trad this past spring, and it took me a couple of months and lots of practice before I felt confident to climb Thin Air on the sharp end (just did it last month). It sounds like you might benefit from climbing with an experienced trad leader or taking a trad class with a local gym. Not sure where you are from, but you should have lots of options.

The only way to learn how to place gear is to do it (and observe how experienced climbers do it), and the best way to is follow seasoned climbers. Also, it's the best way to learn what gear you do and do not need. My partner and I lead Thin Air with a set of nuts (1-13), a single set of C4s (.5 to 3), and X4s (.1 to .4). Figuring out what gear to bring is probably the easiest challenge when trad climbing, though...

There is a lot to think about and consider before and during the climb. Thin Air is definitely doable after some training, but no need to rush into it; it's not going anywhere! Go crag outside with some friends, place gear in low consequence scenarios, and have fun during Send-tember.


Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 650

If Thin Air is going to be your first trad lead it is not the best one. It has a somewhat run-out start and a long traverse. You are better off going to the Gunks and do some straight up easily protected climbs there. You don't buy a rack for a particular climb.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Ya, the traverse sees a lot of problems.

I agree with brian...go to the Gunks

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Eamonn Moy wrote:Nvm I got it!
It's kinda poor form in a discussion forum to essentially delete your post via editing.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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