Permadraws, quick-links and standard bolt hangers... Bewear! (pun intended)


Original Post
John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 451

Just replaced some worn perma-draws in Rifle, where they see lots of use.

These two quick-links were both on the same bolt. Apparently, the smaller one is newer and replaced the bigger one, but the guy probably didn't have a wrench and he left the big one up there.

Another good reason to use glue-ins at high-use areas (round stock won't cut into your biners or quick-links like a standard bolt hanger will).

Large quick-link

Small quick-link from Debaser, Rifle, CO

Daniel H. Bryant · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 275

Thanks for replacing the perma-gear.

The gouge in the quick link would suggest some serious falls/usage...which raises concern about the bolt in the wall.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 451
Daniel H. Bryant wrote:Thanks for replacing the perma-gear. The gouge in the quick link would suggest some serious falls/usage...which raises concern about the bolt in the wall.
Perhaps the bolt might be weakened, but I would guess not, even with the high useage. There's a good amount of rope out at that point so the fall factor is rather low.

I'd say the wear is caused by the leaders swinging back and forth under the roof after falling, and the sharp edges of the bolt hanger, which is a lot harder than the quick-link steel. Good thing it's not an aluminum biner up there!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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