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New Bolts at GoG


Original Post
Emma Pauken · · Lompoc, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

Possibly a dumb question: Does anyone know why there haven't been any initiatives (or if there have and what ended up happening??) to put new bolts into all the routes at GoG? Climbed for a while yesterday and was a little sketched out by the runouts and old bolts. Last climb was Alligator Soup with the brand new bolts courtesy of Petzl and it was so nice. Is it simply a matter of funding? Or does it go deeper into GoG regulations or something like that? Does anyone know if anyone has ever tried to start a fundraising campaign before to rebolt all of the main routes? Thinking about heading something up unless it's already being/been attempted. Can't seem to find a lot of info online. Thanks!

D Argyle · · Green Mountain Falls, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 570

Hey Emma,

Part of the GoG experience is the historical pro and the soft rock! That said, there has been an effort over the years by the Pikes Peak Climber's Alliance to upgrade protection on select lines in the park. PPCA works very closely with Colorado Springs Parks and Recreation to ensure that climbers can keep climbing in our city, and because of the regulatory processes I'd imagine there is a fair amount of red tape. Funding I'm sure is also an issue.

In my experience, everyone at PPCA is enormously friendly and responsive to input from the community. They would certainly be open to suggestions and could definitely put monetary contributions to good use!

Daniel H. Bryant · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 275

Imagine what it must have felt like to be in Harvey Carter's shoes on a FA.
GoG is a sandstone scarefest, let's leave it a 'classic'.
I'm all for replacing worn/bad hardware, but not adding new hardware, I'd like to keep the experience as close to the original as possible.

OrganicChemistry · · Tucson · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 95

totally agree with Daniel.

please leave GoG the way it is,
that is why it's a special place to climb.

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 13,267

Silly Moose and Squirrel! Emma wasn't suggesting that any bolts be added, she ask about upgrading the old sketchy bolts and whether the deplorable lack of movement on the issue was due to regulations/red tape, lack of funding, or general apathy by the local climbing community. Focus and stick to the problem. Good luck to you Emma.

Mike Carrington · · Centenntial · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 2,760

Not a dumb question at all and one I asked before myself. I actually tried to fix anchors and unsafe bolts there before and was met with fierce resistance and territorialism. Funding is not an issue! I offered to buy all the bolts and do the work for free. Some people think they own GOG. I understand wanting to keep climbs the way they are. The point I was trying to make when I wanted to upgrade anchors in GOG is that at least the anchors should be safe. I personally have seen climbs in GOG like Sandy monster and End to End on Kindergarten rock have been rebolted recently with new bolts but the janky, unsafe anchor was left in place. PPCA was in part created to resolve issues like this in Colorado springs. The old school ethics in Colorado springs still run deep, feuds, bolt chopping, secrecy, and climbers being territorial. If you want to get involved join PPCA and let your voice be heard. I don't have the time to go through what it would take to conquer the few that have a monopoly on GOG.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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